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UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA. 

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Received 


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Accessions  No.  <3  *2r.J&. %:$     Shelf  No. 


0* 


With  the  compliments  of 


'Walter  BalCer  SfZ&., 


Dorchester,  Mass. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  200/  with  funding  from 

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http://www.archive.org/details/cocoachocolateshOObugbrich 


'UNIVERSITY 


THE    CHOCOLATE    GIRL- BY    LIOTARD. 

FROM      THE      ORIGINAL      PAINTINC      IN      THE      DRESDEN      GALLERY 


COCOA 


CHOCOLATE 


A    SHORT  HISTORY   OF    THEIR 
PRODUCTION-  AND    USE 


WITH  A  FULL  AND  PARTICULAR  ACCOUNT  OF  THEIR 

PROPERTIES,  AND  OF  THE  VARIOUS  METHODS 

OF  PREPARING  THEM  FOR  FOOD 


Published  by 

WALTER    BAKER    &    COMPANY 

Dorchester,  Mass.,  U.S.A. 

17S0-18S6 


b  i  3 


Copyright,  1SS6, 

By  WALTER  BAKER  &  CO. 
3  2.o^T~ 


press  or 


BOSTON. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Sources  of  information    .        .        .        .  vii 

I. 
Introduction  —  showing  the  remarka- 
ble   INCREASE   IN  THE    CONSUMPTION    OF 
COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE    IN   GREAT   BRIT- 
AIN AND   THE   UNITED   STATES  ...         I 

II. 

The  cacao-tree  —  where  and  how  cul- 
tivated —  METHOD  OF  CURING  THE 
FRUIT,   ETC. .7 

III. 

Early  use  of  cocoa  and  chocolate  in 
mexico,    europe,  etc.       .        .        .        .26 

IV. 

Properties  of  the  different  parts  of 
the  fruit,  and  of  its  products  .        .    45 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


Page 


V. 


Value  of  cocoa  and  chocolate  as  ar- 
ticles OF  FOOD,  WITH  OPINIONS  OF  THE 
MOST   EMINENT   PHYSICIANS  .  .  .      52 


VI. 

Cocoa-butter  —  its     purity, 
qualities,  etc. 


HEALING 


82 


VII. 

Receipts 

Different  methods  of  preparing  drinks 

Plain  chocolate 

Frothed  chocolate   . 

Milled  chocolate 

Baker's  Premium  No.  i 

Baker's  vanilla  chocolate 

Baker's  Breakfast  cocoa  . 

Baker's  Cocoa-paste 

Baker's  Eagle  French  chocolate 

German  sweet  chocolate 

Baker's  Racahout  des  Arabes 

Baker's  broma 

Baker's  Cocoa-shells 

Baker's  prepared  cocoa  . 

Baker's  Premium  cracked  cocoa 


9> 

9i 
94 
96 

97 

93 

98 

99 

99 

99 

100 

100 

100 

101 

IOI 
IOI 


CONTENTS. 

V 

Page 

Receipts,  continued. 

Chocolat  au  lait  (French)      .         .         .  102 

Chocolat  a  Teau 

.  102 

Spanish  chocolate  . 

.  102 

Egg  chocolate 

.  103 

German  egg  chocolate  . 

103 

Parisian  egg  chocolate  . 

.  104 

Wine  chocolate 

106 

Chocolate  wine 

106 

Chocolate  puddings 

.  106 

Chocolate  mixture  . 

.  Ill 

Chocolate  cake 

.  Ill 

Chocolate  cakes 

116 

Chocolate  macaroons 

119 

Chocolate  tartlets   . 

119 

Chocolate  filling  for  cake 

120 

Chocolate  wafers     . 

121 

Chocolate  jumbles  . 

.    122 

Chocolate  Eclairs     . 

123 

Chocolate  cream  puffs   . 

127 

Chocolate  blanc-mange  . 

128 

Chocolate  custards. 

131 

Chocolate  Bavarian  cream 

133 

Chocolate  souffles  . 

134 

Chocolate  meringue 

136 

Chocolate  creams   . 

136 

Cream  chocolates   . 

133 

VI 


CONTENTS. 


Page 


eipts,  continued. 

Chocolate  fondant  .... 

138 

Chocolate  Charlotte  Russe    . 

139 

Chocolate  custard  pies   . 

140 

Chocolate  pie  (rich) 

140 

Chocolate  ice  cream 

141 

Chocolate  cream  drops  . 

M3 

Chocolate  caramels 

144 

Cream  chocolate  caramels     . 

145 

Chocolate  candy      .... 

146 

Creme  de  cacao       .... 

147 

Chocolate  parfait  amour 

147 

Bavaroise  au  chocolat    . 

148 

Chocolate  syrup      .... 

148 

Chocolate  syrup  for  soda  water    . 

.  149 

Chocolate  icing  or  coating    . 

150 

Chocolate  whip 

150 

Chocolate  drops,  with  nonpareils  . 

15* 

SOURCES   OF    INFORMATION. 


"  A  New  Survey  of  the  West  Indies,"  etc.,  by 
Thomas  Gage.     2d  edition,  London,  1655. 

"The  Natural  History  of  Chocolate,"  by  a 
French  Officer;  translated  by  Dr.  R.  Brookes, 
and  printed  in  London,  1730. 

"Foods":  (International  scientific  series), 
by  Dr.  Edward  Smith,  London,  1873. 

"  The  Beverages  we  Infuse " :  Blackwood's 
Magazine,  v.  75,  1854. 

"  Physiologie  du  Gout,"  by  J.  Anthelme  Bril- 
lat-Savarin.     New  edition,  2  v.,  Paris. 

"  Le  Cacao  et  le  Chocolat,  considered  aux 
points  de  vue  botanique,  chimique,  physiolo- 
gique,  agricole,  commercial,  industrial  et  eco- 
nomique."     Par  Arthur  Mangin,  Paris,  1862. 

"  A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Analysis  of  Tea, 
Coffee,  Cocoa,  Chocolate,  etc.,"  by  J.  Alfred 
Wanklyn,  Public  Analyst,  etc.,  London,  1874. 


Vlll  SOURCES   OF   INFORMATION. 

"  McCulloch's  Dictionary  of  Commerce  and 
Commercial  Navigation,"  London,  1882. 

"  Spon's  Encyclopaedia  of  the  Industrial  Arts," 
etc.,  Div.  II.,  London,  1880. 

"  Encyclopaedia  Britannica,"  9th  edition,  Arti- 
cle "  Cocoa." 

Lecture  on  "  Chocolate,"  before  the  Sheffield 
Scientific  School,  New  Haven,  1881,  by  Pro- 
fessor Daniel  C.  Eaton. 

"A  Manual  of  Hygiene,"  prepared  especially 
for  use  in  the  medical  service  of  the  army,  by 
Edmund  A.  Parkes,  M.D.,  F.R.S.,  London,  1864. 

"  A  Treatise  on  Hygiene  and  Public  Health," 
edited  by  Albert  H.  Buck,  M.D.,  New  York,  1879. 

The  "Cantor"  Lectures  on  Food,  by  H. 
Letheby,  London,  1872. 

"  Cocoa,"  by  John  R.  Jackson.  "  Nature," 
v.  2,  1S70. 

"Adulterations  of  Food,"  by  Rowland  J. 
Atcheriy,  Ph.D.,  London,  1874. 

"  Lectures  on  Diet  and  Regimen,"  by  A.  F. 
M.  Willick,  M.D.,  3d  edition,  London,  1801. 

Paper  on  "Chocolate,"  in  the  "  Annales  de 
Physique  et  de  Chimie,"  by  M.  Boussingault, 
member  of  the  French  Institute. 

11  History  of  American  Manufactures,"  by  J. 
L.  Bishop. 


SOURCES   OF   INFORMATION.  IX 

Reports  on  Commerce  and  Navigation,  and 
Consular  Reports,  United  States  and  Great 
Britain. 

Works  on  Cookery,  by  Maria  Parloa,  Pierre 
Caron,  Pierre  Blot,  Mrs.  M.  F.  Henderson, 
Marion  Harland,  Flora  Neely,  Matilda  Lees 
Dods,  Mrs.  Blair,  Sara  T.  Paul;  also,  the 
"  Confectioner's  Journal,"  "  The  Dessert  Book," 
"  Choice  Receipts,"  etc. 


COCOA     AND     CHOCOLATE. 


m 


CONSUMPTION, 

DURING  the  last  half-century  the  con- 
sumption of  cocoa  in  various  forms 
has  increased  to  an  extraordinary  extent, 
both  in  this  country  and  Great  Britain. 
This  is  due  to  several  causes,  among  the 
most  prominent  of  which  are,  (i)  a  reduc- 
tion in  the  retail  price,  which  brings  it 
within  the  means  of  the  poorer  classes  5(2) 
a  more  general  recognition  of  the  value  of 
cocoa  as  an  article  of  diet,  and  (3)  im- 
provements in  methods  of  preparation,  by 
which  it  is  adapted  to  the  wants  of  differ- 
ent classes  of  consumers. 


Z  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

There  is  no  doubt  that,  if  it  had  not 
been  for  the  monopoly  of  the  production 
which  Spain  long  possessed,  and  which 
kept  the  price,  on  its  first  introduction 
into  England,  at  a  point  where  only  the 
rich  could  afford  to  buy  it,  cocoa  would 
have  come  into  as  general  use  there  as  it 
did  in  Spain,  and  would,  perhaps,  have 
been  received  with  more  favor  than  tea  cr 
coffee,  which  were  introduced  about  the 
same  time. 

It  appears  that,  in  the  time  of  Charles 
II.,  the  price  of  the  best  chocolate  (very 
crude,  undoubtedly,  as  compared  with 
the  present  manufactures),  was  6s.  8d.  a 
pound,  which,  if  we  take  into  account  the 
greater  purchasing  power  of  money  at  that 
time,  would  be  equal  to  at  least  $5  a  pound 
at  this  time  for  a  coarse  compound. 

Humboldt  estimated  the  consumption  of 
cocoa  in  Europe,  in  1806,  at  23,000,000 
pounds  per  annum,  of  which  from  6,000,000 
to  9,000,000  were  supposed  to  be  consumed 


CONSUMPTION.  3 

in  Spain.  From  the  latest  official  returns  of 
imports  and  consumption  in  the  principal 
countries  it  appears  that  over  70,000,000 
pounds  are  now  used.  France  heads  the 
list  with  26,750,250  pounds  ;  Spain  comes 
next,  with  16,450,000;  England  consumes 
13,966,512;  the  Netherlands,  5,475,000; 
Germany,  about  3,250,000,  and  Belgium, 
1,245.000.  The  United  States  stands  next 
to  Great  Britain  in  the  list  of  consumers, 
the  amount  of  crude  cocoa  entered  for  con- 
sumption last  year  being  about  8,500,000 
pounds.  The  returns  of  exportations  from 
the  countries  in  which  the  article  is  pro- 
duced are  so  incomplete  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  state  definitely  the  total  amount 
exported ;  but  it  is  probably  not  far 
from  80,000,000  pounds  per  annum. 
Reckoning  the  consumption  in  the  coun- 
tries where  it  is  raised  at  not  less  than 
20,000,000  pounds,  it  may  safely  be  as- 
sumed that  the  total  annual  product  does 
not  fall  short  of  100,000,000  pounds. 


4  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

While  the  average  price  of  the  raw  prod- 
uct has  steadily  increased  during  the  last 
thirty  years  (from  47s.  per  cwt.,  between 
1854-60,  to  74s.  between  1881-841),  the 
retail  price  of  the  prepared  cocoa  has 
fallen.  This  is  due  to  improvements  in 
machinery  and  methods  of  handling,  and 
to  the  sharp  competition  between  the  lead- 
ing manufacturers. 

In  1820  the  quantity  of  cocoa  entered  for 
home  consumption  in  the  United  Kingdom 
of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  was  only 
267,321  pounds;  in  1884  it  amounted  to 
13,966,512  pounds  of  crude  cocoa,  and 
1,033,173  pounds  of  chocolate, — in  all 
about  15,000,000  pounds,  an  increase  of 
5,500  per  cent,  in  sixty-four  years.  The 
population,  in  the  meantime,  had  increased 
only  73^  per  cent.  ;  the  use  of  tea  had  in- 
creased only  457  per  cent.,  and  of  coffee 
only  356  per  cent.     During  the  last  twenty- 

1  Mulhall's  (English)  Price  Lists. 


CONSUMPTION.  0 

five  years  the  consumption  of  cocoa  and  its 
products  in  the  United  Kingdom  has  in- 
creased about  230  per  cent.  The  con- 
sumption per  inhabitant  is  about  63/s  oz. 

In  the  United  States  the  increased  con- 
sumption in  recent  years  has  been  no  less 
striking.  The  amount  of  cocoa  retained 
for  home  consumption  in  i860  was  only 
1,181,054  pounds  ;  in  1885  it  was  8,426,787 
pounds  (that  is,  cocoa,  crude  cocoa  and 
shells,  not  including  chocolate,  which  is 
classed,  in  the  official  returns  of  imports, 
under  the  general  head  of  u  farinaceous 
articles"),  —  an  increase  of  614  per  cent, 
in  twenty-five  years.  The  population  in- 
creased during  that  period  less  than  60  per 
cent.  The  consumption  of  tea  increased 
153  per  cent.,  and  of  coffee  196  per  cent. 

In  view,  therefore,  of  the  great  and 
constantly  increasing  use  of  this  product, 
its  properties  and  supply  become  questions 
of  the  highest  economic  and  hygienic  im- 
portance.    For  the  purpose  of  satisfying 


6  COCOA  AND   CHOCOLATE. 

the  desire  for  information  upon  a  subject 
which  is  of  such  general  interest  we  have 
collected,  from  the  most  authentic  sources, 
such  facts  in  relation  to  the  growth  of 
the  cacao-tree,  the  preparation  of  its  fruit  for 
the  market,  and  the  value  of  the  different 
preparations  for  dietary  purposes,  as  may 
serve  to  increase  the  common  stock  of 
knowledge  in  regard  to  one  of  the  staple 
articles  of  food. 


THE   CACAO-TREE. 


II. 

THE   CACAO-TREE. 

THE  term  "  Cocoa"  is  a  corruption  of 
"  Cacao,"  but  is  almost  universally 
used  in  English-speaking  countries.  The 
cacao-tree  belongs  to  the  natural  order  of 
Sterculiaceae,  —  a  family  of  about  41  gen- 
era and  521  species,  inhabiting  the  warmer 
regions  of  the  world.  None  of  them  grow 
naturally  in  our  climate,  or  in  Europe, 
and,  excepting  the  little  yellow-flowered 
Mahernie,  they  are  very  seldom  seen  in  our 
conservatories. 

The  cacao-tree  can  be  cultivated  in  suit- 
able situations  within  the  25th  parallels  of 
latitude.  It  flourishes  best,  however,  with- 
in the  15th  parallels,  at  elevations  varying 
from  near  the  sea-level  up  to  about  2,000 
feet  in  height.     The  following  table  con- 


8 


COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE. 


tains  the  principal  species,  the  places  where 
grown,  and  the  commercial  name  :  — 


Botanical  Name. 

Theobroma 
angustifolia   , 

T.  bicolor    .     . 


T.  Cacao  (sati- 
va) .     .     .     . 


Where  Grown.      Commercial  Name. 


Mexico. 
Brazil     .     .     . 
New  Granada, 


Australia, 

Bourbon, 

Ceylon, 

Cuba, 

Dominico, 

Guadaloupe, 

Guatemala . 

Guinea  .     . 

Hayti, 

India, 

Jamaica, 

Java, 

Madagascar, 

Martinique, 

Mauritius, 

Philippines, 

St.  Croix, 

St.  Lucia, 

St.  Vincent, 

Trinidad, 


Maranhan. 

Bahia. 

Magdalena. 


The  name  of 
each  country. 


Central  Amer- 
ican. 
African. 


The  name  of 
each  country. 


THE    CACAO-TREE. 


Botanical  Name. 

T.  Cacao  (sati- 

va.) 
T.  glauca. 
T.  Guyanensis, 

T.  microcarpa, 

T.  ovalifolia 
T.  speciosa  .     . 
T.  sylvestris     . 


Where  Grown. 

>  Venezuela  . 

Cayenne 

Surinam. 
J  Ecuador 
}  Peru  .     . 

Mexico  . 

Brazil     . 

Brazil     . 

Jamaica . 


Commercial  Name. 

^  Maracaibo. 
'  l  Caracas. 

.     Berbice. 

Surinam. 
.     Esmeralda. 
.     Guayaquil. 

Soconusco. 

Para. 


Besides  the  above-mentioned  species, 
distinguished  by  botanists,  T.  Cacao, 
which  is  the  most  widely  and  largely  cul- 
tivated, is  divided  by  cocoa-planters  into 
several  varieties,  the  differences  observed 
being  due  to  the  long-continued  influences 
of  varied  climates,  soils  and  modes  of  cult- 
ure. The  best  of  these  is  the  Creole  (or 
Criollo  of  the  Spanish  inhabitants  of  South 
America).  The  pods  are  small;  but  the 
nuts  are  thick,  short,  and  almost  globular, 
pale  crimson  in  color,  and  of  slightly  bitter 
but    agreeable    flavor.      This    variety    is 


10  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

becoming  scarce,  chiefly  through  the  bad 
policy  of  replacing  decayed  trees  by  in- 
ferior specimens.  The  next  variety  is  the 
For  aster  o,  the  best  kinds  of  which  are  the 
Cundeamar,  of  two  descriptions,  one  with 
yellow,  the  other  with  red  pods.  The 
former  is  the  better,  containing  large  seeds 
which,  in  color  and  the  ease  with  which 
they  are  fermented,  resemble  the  Criollo. 
The  third  variety  is  the  Amelonado ;  and 
the  fourth  and  lowest  is  the  Calabacillo, 
whose  seeds  are  small,  bitter,  and  of  a  dark 
crimson  color. 

All  the  varieties  except  the  Criollo, 
which  is  probably  confined  to  Venezuela, 
are  known  collectively  as  Trinitario,  or 
"  Trinidad,"  —  the  best  being  but  little  in- 
ferior to  Criollo  in  the  matter  of  quality, 
and  superior  on  the  score  of  fruitfulness. 
Hence  Trinidad  forms  the  principal  nursery 
from  which  plants  or  seeds  are  procured 
for  new  plantations. 

The  various    kinds  of    cocoa    may  be 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  11 

placed  in  about  the  following  order  of 
merit:  Soconusco  (Mexico)  and  Esmeralda, 
(Ecuador),  mostly,  it  is  said,  consumed  at 
home  ;  Caracas  and  Puerto  Cabello  (Vene- 
zuela) ;  Trinitario ;  Magdalena  and  Car- 
thagena,  New  Granada  ;  Para  ;  Bahia.1 

The  British  West  Indies  appear  to  take 
the  lead  among  the  producers  for  exporta- 
tion ;  Ecuador  stands  second,  Venezuela 
third,  and  Brazil  fourth.  The  larger  part 
of  the  Brazilian  crop  goes  to  France  ;  and 
the  larger  part  of  the  Ecuadorian  to 
Spain. 

A  French  officer  who  served  in  the  West 
Indies  for  a  period  of  fifteen  years,  during 
the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  wrote,  as 
the  result  of  his  personal  observations,  a 
treatise  on  "The  Natural  History  of  Choco- 
late, being  a  distinct  and  particular  Account 
of  the  Cacao-Tree,  its  Growth  and  Culture, 

1Spon's  Encyclopaedia,  etc.,  Div.  II. 


12  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE. 

and  the  Preparation,  Excellent  Properties, 
and  Medicinal  Virtues  of  its  Fruit,"  which 
received  the  approbation  of  the  Regent  of 
the  Faculty  of  Medicine  at  Paris,  and 
which  was  translated  and  published  in 
London  in  1730* 

From  this  rare  and  valuable  little  work 
the  following  extracts  are  made :  — 

"  The  cacao-tree  almost  all  the  year 
bears  fruit  of  all  ages,  which  ripens  suc- 
cessively, but  never  grows  on  the  end  of 
little  branches,  as  our  fruits  in  Europe  do, 
but  along  the  trunk  and  chief  boughs, 
which  is  not  rare  in  these  countries,  where 
several  trees  do  the  like.  Such  an  unusual 
appearance  would  seem  strange  in  the  eyes 
of  Europeans,  who  have  never  seen  any- 
thing of  that  kind  ;  but,  if  one  examines 
the  matter  a  little,  the  philosophical  reason 
of  this  disposition  is  very  obvious.  One 
may  easily  apprehend  that  if  nature  had 
placed  such  bulky  fruit  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches  their  great  weight  must  necessa- 


THE   CACAO-TREE.  13 

rily  break  them,  and  the  fruit  would  fall 
before  it  came  to  maturity. 

u  The  fruit  is  contained  in  a  husk,  or  shell, 
which,  from  an  exceedingly  small  begin- 
ning, attains  in  the  space  of  four  months  to 
the  bigness  and  shape  of  a  cucumber.  The 
lower  end  is  sharp,  and  furrowed  length- 
wise like  a  melon.  This  shell  in  the  first 
months  is  either  red  or -white,  or  a  mixture 
of  red  and  yellow.  This  variety  of  colors 
makes  three  sorts  of  cacao-trees,  which 
have  nothing  else  to  distinguish  them  but 
this.  ...  If  one  cleaves  one  of  these  shells 
lengthways  it  will  appear  almost  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  its  capacity  full  of  choco- 
late kernels^  the  intervals  of  which,  before 
they  are  ripe,  are  filled  with  a  hard  white 
substance,  which  at  length  turns  into  a 
mucilage  of  a  very  grateful  acidity.  For 
this  reason  it  is  common  for  people  to  take 
some  of  the  kernels  with  their  covers  and 
hold  them  in  their  mouths,  which  is  mighty 
refreshing,  and   proper   to  quench   thirst. 


14  COCOA  AND   CHOCOLATE. 

But  they  take  heed  of  biting  them,  because 
the  films  of  the  kernels  are  extremely  bitter. 
"  When  one  nicely  examines  the  inward 
structure  of  these  shells,  and  anatomizes, 
as  it  were,  all  their  parts,  one  shall  find 
that  the  fibres  of  the  stalk  of  the  fruit  pass- 
ing through  the  shell  are  divided  into 
five  branches  ;  that  each  of  these  branches 
is  subdivided  into  several  filaments,  every 
one  of  which  terminates  at  the  larger  end 
of  these  kernels,  and  altogether  resembles 
a  bunch  of  grapes,  containing  from  twenty 
to  thirty-five  single  ones,  or  more,  ranged 
and  placed  in  an  admirable  order.  When 
one  takes  off  the  film  that  covers  one  of  the 
kernels  the  substance  of  it  appears,  which 
is  tender,  smooth,  and  inclining  to  violet 
color,  and  is  seemingly  divided  into  several 
lobes,  though  in  reality  they  are  but  two ; 
but  very  irregular  and  difficult  to  be  disen- 
gaged from  each  other." 

An   interesting  supplement  to  this  de- 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  15 

scription  of  the  product  in  the  West  Indies, 
written  more  than  a  century  and  a  half  ago, 
will  be  found  in  the  following  report,  made 
last  year  to  the  State  Department  at  Wash- 
ington, by  the  U.S.  Consul  at  La  Guayra, 
in  relation  to  the  cultivation  of  cocoa  in 
Venezuela,  where  the  choicest  variety  of 
the  exported  product,  the  Caracas,  is 
raised :  — 

44  The  tree  grows  to  the  average  height  of 
thirteen  feet,  and  from  five  to  eight  inches 
in  diameter,  is  of  spreading  habit  and 
healthy  growth,  and,  although  requiring 
much  more  care  and  attention  than  the 
coffee-tree,  yet  its  equally  reliable  crops 
require  comparatively  little  labor  in  prop- 
erly preparing  for  the  market. 

44 .  .  .  There  are  two  varieties  of  the 
cocoa-tree  cultivated  in  Venezuela,  known 
as  El  Criollo  and  El  Trinitario,  respec- 
tively, the  former  of  which,  though  not  so 
prolific  nor  as  early  fruiting  as  the  latter, 
is  yet  superior  to  it  in  size,  color,  sweet- 


16  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

ness,  and  oleaginous  properties  of  the  fruit, 
and  in  the  fact  that  it  always  finds  ready 
sale,  while  the  latter  is  often  dull  or  neg- 
lected. The  difference  in  price  of  the  two 
varieties  is  also  marked,  the  former  being 
quoted  at  $28  to  $30  per  fanega  (no 
pounds),  while  the  latter  commands  ap- 
proximately half  that  price. 

u  While  coffee  can  be  successfully  culti- 
vated under  a  temperature  of  60  degrees 
F.,  the  cocoa-tree,  for  proper  development 
and  remunerative  crops,  requires  a  tem- 
perature of  80  degrees  F.  ;  hence  the  area 
of  the  cocoa  belt  is  comparatively  re- 
stricted, and  the  cocoa-planter  presumably 
has  not  to  fear  the  fierce  competition  that 
he  has  encountered  in  the  cultivation  of 
cotton  and  coffee.  Besides  the  condition 
of  temperature  above  stated,  this  crop 
needs  a  moist  soil  and  humid  atmosphere, 
and  so  the  lands  along  the  coast  of  the 
Caribbean  sea,  sloping  from  the  mountain- 
tops  to  the  shore,  bedewed*  by  the  exha- 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  17 

lations  of  the  sea  and  irrigated  by  the 
numerous  rivulets  that  course  down  the 
valleys,  are  found  to  be,  in  all  respects, 
well  adapted  to  the  profitable  cultivation 
of  cocoa.  And  while  the  lands  in  the 
interior  possessing  facilities  for  irrigation 
may  be  said  to  be  equally  as  good  for 
the  purpose,  yet  the  absence  of  roads,  and 
the  consequently  difficult  transportation  of 
produce  on  the  backs  of  donkeys  over 
rugged  mountain  paths,  materially  reduce 
the  profits  on  the  crop  before  it  reaches 
the  market. 

"  A  cocoa  plantation  is  set  in  quite  the 
same  manner  as  an  apple-orchard,  except 
that  the  young  stalks  may  be  transplanted 
from  the  nursery  after  two  months'  growth. 
No  preparation  of  the  soil  is  deemed  neces- 
sary, and  no  manures  are  applied.  The 
young  trees  are  planted  about  fifteen  feet 
equidistant,  which  will  accommodate  two 
hundred  trees  to  the  acre.  Between  rows, 
and  at  like  spaces,  are  planted  rows  of  the 


18  COCOA  AND    CHOCOLATE. 

Bucare,  a  tree  of  rapid  growth,  that  serves 
to  shade  the  soil  as  well  as  to  shield  the 
young  trees  from  the  torrid  sun.  Small 
permanent  trenches  must  be  maintained 
from  tree  to  tree  throughout  the  entire 
length  of  the  rows,  so  that,  at  least  once 
in  the  week,  the  stream,  descending  from 
the  mountains,  may  be  turned  into  these 
little  channels  and  bear  needful  moisture 
to  trees  and  soil.  At  the  age  of  five  years 
the  plantation  begins  to  bear  fruit,  and 
annually  yields  two  crops,  that  ripening  in 
June  being  termed  the  crop  of  San  Juan, 
and  that  maturing  at  Christmas  being 
known  as  the  crop  of  La  Navidad.  The 
average  age  to  which  the  trees  attain, 
under  proper  care,  may  be  estimated  at 
forty  years,  during  which  period  it  will 
give  fair  to  full  crops  of  fruit ;  but  of 
course  it  must  be  understood  that,  as  in 
our  fruit-orchards,  a  new  tree  must  be  set 
from  time  to  time  to  replace  one  that  may 
be  decayed    or    blighted.      After   careful 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  19 

inquiry  it  may  be  safely  stated  that  the 
average  crop  of  the  cocoa  plantation  at 
ten  years  of  age,  and  under  a  proper  state 
of  cultivation,  will  amount  to  five  hundred 
or  six  hundred  pounds  per  acre. 

"  The  fruit  or  seed  of  the  cocoa,  in  form, 
size,  and  color,  is  quite  similar  to  the 
almond.  These  seeds,  to  the  number  of 
sixty   or  eighty,1    are  encased    in    a   pod, 

1  This  statement  is  incorrect.  The  average  number  is 
about  twenty-five ;  the  maximum  number  would  not  exceed 
forty.  It  is  curious  to  note  the  different  statements  of  those 
who  are  regarded  as  authorities  on  the  subject.  Dampier 
("A  New  Voyage  round  the  World")  says  there  are  com- 
monly near  a  hundred;  Thomas  Gage  ("New  Survey 
of  the  West  Indies")  says  there  are  from  thirty  to  forty; 
Colmenero  ("  A  Curious  Discourse  upon  Chocolate  ")  says 
ten  or  twelve;  Oexmelin  ("The  History  of  Adventures  ") 
says  ten  to  fourteen.  The  French  officer,  in  his  "Natural 
History  of  Chocolate,"  says  (and  says  truly),  "  I  can  affirm, 
after  a  thousand  trials,  that  I  never  found  more  nor  less  than 
twenty-five.  Perhaps,  if  one  were  to  seek  out  the  largest 
shells  in  the  most  fruitful  soil  and  growing  on  the  most 
flourishing  trees,  one  might  find  forty  kernels;  but  as  it  is 
not  likely  one  would  ever  meet  with  more,  so,  on  the  other 
hand,  it  is  not  probable  one  would  ever  find  less  than  fifteen 
except  they  are  abortive,  or  the  fruit  of  a  tree  worn  out  with 
age  in  a  barren  soil,  or  without  culture." 


20  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

which,  except  in  color,  is  the  counterpart 
of  a  young  muskmelon,  being  elongated 
and  ribbed  in  the  same  manner.  Its  color, 
when  green,  is  like  that  of  the  egg-plant, 
but,  on  ripening,  it  assumes  a  reddish 
hue.  A  peculiarity  of  the  cocoa  is  that 
it  bears  fruit  "  from  the  ground  up,"  the 
trunk  yielding  fruit  as  well  as  the 
branches.  Upon  ripening,  the  pods  are 
gathered  from  the  trees  and  heaped  in 
piles  on  the  ground,  where  they  are  left 
for  some  days  to  ferment,  after  which  they 
burst  open,  when  the  seed  must  be  shelled 
out.  After  a  light  exposure  to  the  sun, 
during  which  time  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  protect  them  from  the  rain,  they 
are  sacked  and  ready  for  market. 

u  The  cocoa-trees,  when  very  young, 
require  to  be  carefully  watched,  to  protect 
them  from  the  ravages  of  the  borers,  which, 
instead  of  entering  the  trees  near  the  ground 
or  in  the  roots,  as  is  the  case  with  the 
borers  in  our  peach-orchards,  burrow  under 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  21 

the  bark  of  the  trunk  and  girdle  the  trees. 
After  a  few  years  of  care  all  danger  from 
this  source  is  removed.  The  only  disease 
to  which  the  tree  is  subject  is  la  ?nancha, 
which  is  an  affection  similar  to  the  pear 
blight  in  the  United  States,  though  not  so 
obstinate  and  fatal,  and  which,  by  promptly 
cutting  away  the  diseased  bark,  may  be 
usually  arrested.  The  squirrels  and  wood- 
peckers also  must  be  guarded  against,  as 
they  are  very  fond  of  the  young  fruit.  It 
happens  too,  though  rarely,  that  a  period 
of  ten  or  twelve  days  of  continuous  rainy 
and  cloudy  weather  ensues,  in  which  event 
much  of  the  fruit  is  blighted  and  falls  from 
the  trees.  These,  it  is  believed,  comprise 
all  the  casualties  to  which  the  tree  and  the 
green  crop  are  exposed ;  but  which,  when 
compared  with  the  usual  contingencies  that 
affect  our  own  orchards  and  fruit  crops, 
may  not  be  considered  more  damaging  or 
discouraging. 

44  In  the  tillage  of  the  soil  and  the  econo- 


22  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

mies  of  agriculture  the  people  of  Vene- 
zuela are  probably  not  in  advance  of  those 
who  scratched  and  scraped  the  earth  before 
the  deluge.  A  people  that  will  plough 
with  a  forked  stick,  and  plant  corn  with  an 
iron  crow-bar,  as  is  practised  here,  have 
much  to  learn  in  respect  to  the  laws  of 
nature  and  the  appliances  of  art.  And 
the  resultant  idea,  on  a  practical  review  of 
the  subject,  is  that,  if  a  fair  amount  of 
intelligent  industry  and  care  could  be  in- 
vested in  the  cultivation  of  this  crop,  it 
would  undoubtedly  yield  a  surprisingly 
satisfactory  percentage  of  remunerative 
returns." 

The  method  of  preparing  the  fruit  for 
shipment  is  thus  described  in  the  recent  edi- 
tion of  the  "  Encyclopaedia  Britannica  "  :  — 

"  In  gathering,  the  workman  is  careful 
to  cut  down  only  fully  ripened  pods,  which 
he  adroitly  accomplishes  with  a  long  pole 
armed  with  two  prongs,  or  a  knife  at  its 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  23 

extremity.  The  pods  are  left  in  a  heap  on 
the  ground  for  about  twenty-four  hours ; 
they  are  then  cut  open  and  the  seeds  are 
taken  out  and  carried  in  baskets  to  the 
place  where  they  undergo  the  operation  of 
sweating  or  curing.  There  the  acid  juice 
which  accompanies  the  seeds  is  first  drained 
off,  after  which  they  are  placed  in  a  sweat- 
ing-box, in  which  they  are  enclosed  and 
allowed  to  ferment  for  some  time,  great 
care  being  taken  to  keep  the  temperature 
from  rising  too  high.  The  fermenting 
process  is,  in  some  cases,  affected  by  throw- 
ing the  seeds  into  holes  or  trenches  in  the 
ground  and  covering  them  with  earth  or 
clay.  The  seeds  in  this  process,  which  is 
called  claying,  are  occasionally  stirred  to 
keep  the  fermentation  from  proceeding  too 
violently.  The  sweating  is  a  process  which 
requires  the  very  greatest  attention  and 
experience,  as  on  it,  to  a  great  extent,  de- 
pends the  flavor  of  the  seeds  and  their  fit- 
ness for  preservation.    The  operation  varies 


24  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

according  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  but  a 
period  of  about  two  days  yields  the  best 
results.  Thereafter  the  seeds  are  exposed 
to  the  sun  for  drying,  and  those  of  a  fine 
quality  should  then  assume  a  warm,  red- 
dish tint,  which  characterizes  beans  of  a 
superior  quality." 

The  shell  of  the  nut  is  prolonged  in  the 
form  of  thin  septa  into  the  inner  part  of 
the  seed.  The  relative  proportions  of 
shell  and  nib  are  approximately  as  I  :  8, 
the  nib  being  much  the  more  abundant. 
They  vary  considerably  in  size.  Single 
seeds  may  be  picked  out  which  weigh 
as  much  as  2.7  grammes  ;'  but  the  average 
weight  is  much  less,  viz.,  1.2  grammes. 

The  following  determinations  of  the 
weights  of  the  different  kinds  of  seeds  were 
made  by  J.  Alfred  Wanklyn,  the  well- 
known  analyst :  — 

1  A  gramme  is  equal  to  15.432  English  grains. 


THE    CACAO-TREE.  25 

Name  of  Cocoa.  Weight  of  ioo  Nuts. 

Grammes. 

Common  Trinidad 98. 

Fair,  good  Trinidad      .     .     .     .  123.2 

Very  fine  Trinidad 178.7 

Medium  Granada io4-5 

Fine  Granada 131. 

Caracas I3°«3 

Dominican no. 

Fine  Surinam 122. 

Fine  Surinam  (small)   ....  7I*5 

Bahia  (Brazil) 118. 

Mexican 13^-5 

African 128. 

The  nut,  in  its  unprepared  condition, 
is  not  an  article  of  retail  trade.  Before 
it  reaches  the  consumer  it  requires  much 
preparation,  and  without  such  preparation 
it  is  in  as  impracticable  a  condition  as 
unground  grain  before  the  miller  has  con- 
verted it  into  flour. 


26  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE, 


III. 
EARLY   USE. 

THE  name  chocolate  is  nearly  the  same 
in  most  European  languages,  and  is 
taken  from  the  Mexican  name  of  the 
drink,  chocolatl,  or  cacahuatl.  All  is 
common  enough  in  Mexican  words,  and 
is  known  to  signify  water.  What  the  first 
part  of  the  word  means  is  not  so  clear.  A 
French  writer  says  it  signifies  noise ;  and 
that  the  drink  was  so  named  because  it  was 
beaten  to  a  froth  before  being  drunk. 

The  Spaniards  found  chocolate  in  com- 
mon use  among  the  Mexicans  at  the  time 
of  the  invasion  under  Cortez,  in  1519,  and 
it  was  introduced  into  Spain  immediately 
after.  The  Mexicans  not  only  used  choco- 
late as  a  staple  article  of  food,  but  they  used 
the  seeds  of  the   cacao-tree  as  a  medium 


EARLY   USE.  27 

of  exchange.  An  early  writer  says,  "  In 
certain  provinces  called  Guatimala  and 
Soconusco  there  is  growing  a  great  store 
of  cacao,  which  is  a  berry  like  unto  an 
almond.  It  is  the  best  merchandise  that  is 
in  all  the  Indies.  The  Indians  make  drink 
of  it,  and  in  like  manner  meat  to  eat.  It 
goeth  currently  for  money  in  any  market, 
or  fair,  and  may  buy  flesh,  fish,  bread 
or  cheese,  or  other  things." 

In  the  "True  History  of  the  Conquest 
of  Mexico,"  by  Bernal  Diaz,  an  officer 
under  Cortez,  it  is  related  that  "  from  time 
to  time  a  liquor  prepared  from  cocoa  and 
of  a  stimulating  or  corroborative  quality, 
as  we  are  told,  was  presented  to  Mon- 
tezuma in  a  golden  cup.  We  could  not  at 
the  time  see  if  he  drank  it  or  not,  but  I 
observed  a  number  of  jars — above  fifty  — 
brought  in  and  filled  with  foaming  choco- 
late." 

Thomas  Gage,  in  his  "New  Survey  of 


28  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE. 

the  West  Indies,"  first  published  in  1648, 
gives  the  following  interesting  account  of 
the  Spanish  and  Indian  way  of  making  and 
drinking  chocolate  some  two  hundred  and 
fifty  years  ago  :  — 

"Now,  for  the  making  or  compounding 
of  this  drink,  I  shall  set  down  here  the 
method.  The  cacao  and  the  other  ingre- 
dients must  be  beaten  in  a  mortar  of  stone, 
or  (as  the  Indians  use)  ground  upon  a 
broad  stone,  which  they  call  Met  ate,  and 
is  only  made  for  that  use.  But  first  the 
ingredients  are  all  to  be  dried,  except  the 
Achiotte  (annotto),  with  care  that  they  be 
beaten  to  powder,  keeping  them  still  in 
stirring  that  they  be  not  burnt,  or  become 
black  ;  for  if  they  be  overdried  they  will  be 
bitter  and  lose  their  virtue.  The  cinnamon 
and  the  long  red  pepper  are  to  be  first 
beaten  with  the  anniseed,  and  then  the 
cacao,  which  must  be  beaten  by  little  and 
little  till  it  be  all  powdered,  and  in  the 
beating  it  must  be  turned  round  that  it  may 


EARLY   USE.  29 

mix  the  better.  Every  one  of  these  ingredi- 
ents must  be  beaten  by  itself,  and  then  all  be 
put  into  the  vessel  where  the  cacao  is, 
which  you  must  stir  together  with  a  spoon, 
and  then  take  out  that  paste,  and  put  it 
into  the  mortar,  under  which  there  must 
be  a  little  fire,  after  the  confection  is  made  ; 
but  if  more  fire  be  put  under  than  will  only 
warm  it,  then  the  unctuous  part  will  dry 
away.  The  Achiotte  also  must  be  put  in 
in  the  beating,  that  it  may  the  better  take 
the  colour.  All  the  ingredients  must  be 
searced,  save  only  the  cacao,  and  if  from 
the  cacao  the  dry  shell  be  taken,  it  will  be 
the  better.  When  it  is  well  beaten  and  in- 
corporated (which  will  be  known  by  the 
shortnesse  of  it)  then  with  a  spoon  (so  in 
the  Indias  is  used)  is  taken  up  some  of  the 
paste,  which  will  be  almost  liquid,  and 
made  into  tablets,  or  else  without  a  spoon 
put  into  boxes,  and  when  it  is  cold  it  will 
be  hard. 

"Those  that  make  it  into  tablets  put  a 


30  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE. 

spoonful  of  the  paste  upon  a  piece  of 
paper  (the  Indians  put  it  upon  the  leaf  of 
a  plaintain  tree),  where,  being  put  into 
the  shade  (for  in  the  sun  it  melts  and  dis- 
solves) ,  it  grows  hard ;  and  then  bowing 
the  paper  or  leaf,  the  tablet  fals  off  by 
reason  of  the  fatnesse  of  the  paste.  But  if 
it  be  put  into  anything  of  earth  or  wood,  it 
stickes  fast,  and  will  not  come  off  but  with 
scraping  or  breaking.  The  manner  of 
drinking  it  is  divers ;  the  one  (being  the 
way  most  used  in  Mexico)  is  to  take  it 
hot  with  Atolle,  dissolving  a  tablet  in  hot 
water,  and  stirring  and  beating  it  in  the 
cup,  when  it  is  to  be  drunk,  with  a  Moli- 
net,  and  when  it  is  well  stirred  to  a  scum  me 
or  froth,  then  to  fill  the  cup  with  kot 
Atolle,  and  so  drink  it  sup  by  sup.  An- 
other way  is  that  the  chocolate,  being  dis- 
solved with  cold  water  and  stirred  with  the 
Molinet,  and  the  scurame  being  taken  off 
and  put  into  another  vessel,  the  remainder 
be  set  upon  the  fire,  with  as  much  sugar 


EARLY   USE.  31 

as  will  sweeten  it,  and  when  it  is  warme, 
then  to  powre  it  upon  the  scumme  which 
was  taken  off  before,  and  so  to  drink  it. 
But  the  most  ordinary  way  is  to  warme  the 
water  very  hot,  and  then  to  powre  out 
half  the  cup  full  that  you  mean  to  drink ; 
and  to  put  into  it  a  tablet  or  two,  or  as 
much  as  will  thicken  reasonably  the  water, 
and  then  grinde  it  well  with  the  Molinet, 
and  when  it  is  well  ground  and  risen  to  a 
scumme,  to  fill  the  cup  with  hot  water,  and 
so  drink  it  by  sups  (having  sweetened  it 
with  sugar) ,  and  to  eat  it  with  a  little  con- 
serve or  maple  bred,  steeped  into  the 
chocolatte. 

"  Besides  these  ways  there  is  another  way 
(which  is  much  used  in  the  Island  of  Santo 
Domingo),  which  is  to  put  the  chocolatte 
into  a  pipkin  with  a  little  water,  and  to  let 
it  boyle  well  till  it  be  dissolved,  and  then 
to  put  in  sufficient  water  and  sugar  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity  of  the  chocolatte,  and 
then  to  boyle  it  again  untill  there  comes 


32  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

an  oily  scumme  upon  it,  and  then  to  drink 
it. 

M  There  is  another  way  yet  to  drink  choco- 
latte,  which  is  cold,  which  the  Indians  use 
at  feasts  to  refresh  themselves,  and  it  is 
made  after  this  manner:  The  chocolatte 
(which  is  made  with  none,  or  very  few, 
ingredients)  being  dissolved  in  cold  water 
with  the  Molinet,  they  take  off  the  scumme 
or  crassy  part,  which  riseth  in  great  quan- 
tity, especially  when  the  cacao  is  older  and 
more  putrefied.  The  scumme  they  lay  aside 
in  a  little  dish  by  itself,  and  then  put  sugar 
into  that  part  from  whence  was  taken  the 
scumme,  and  then  powre  it  from  on  high 
into  the  scumme,  and  so  drink  it  cold. 
And  this  drink  is  so  cold  that  it  agreeth 
not  with  all  men's  stomachs ;  for  by  ex- 
perience it  hath  been  found  that  it  doth 
hurt  by  causing  pains  in  the  stomach,  es- 
pecially to  women. 

"  The  third  way  of  taking  it  is  the  most 
used,  and  thus  certainly  it  doth  no  hurt, 


EARLY   USE.  33 

neither  know  I  why  it  may  not  be  used  as 
well  in  England  as  in  other  parts,  both 
hot  and  cold  ;  for  where  it  is  so  much  used, 
the  most,  if  not  all,  as  well  in  the  Indias 
as  in  Spain,  Italy,  Flanders  (which  is  a 
cold  countrey) ,  find  that  it  agreeth  well  with 
them.  True  it  is,  it  is  used  more  in  the 
Indias  than  in  the  European  parts,  because 
there  the  stomachs  are  more  apt  to  faint 
than  here,  and  a  cup  of  chocolatte  well 
confectioned  comforts  and  strengthens  the 
stomach.  For  myself  I  must  say,  I  used 
it  twelve  years  constantly,  drinking  one 
cup  in  the  morning,  another  yet  before 
dinner  between  nine  or  ten  of  the  clock ; 
another  within  an  hour  or  two  after  dinner, 
and  another  between  four  and  five  in  the 
afternoon ;  and  when  I  was  purposed  to 
sit  up  late  to  study,  I  would  take  another 
cup  about  seven  or  eight  at  night,  which 
would  keep  me  waking  till  about  midnight. 
And  if  by  chance  I  did  neglect  any  of 
these  accustomed  houres,  I  presently  found 


34  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

my  stomach  fainty.  And  with  this  custome 
I  lived  twelve  years  in  those  parts  healthy, 
without  any  obstructions,  or  oppilations, 
not  knowing  what  either  ague  or  feaver 
was." 

M.  Ferdinand  Denis,  in  u  La  Legende 
du  Cacahuatl,"  makes  the  following  inter- 
esting statement  in  regard  to  the  prepara- 
tion of  chocolate  in  ancient  Mexico  :  — 

"  Torquemada,  the  learned  historian, 
and  Thomas  Gage,  the  conscientious  trav- 
eller, agree  in  telling  us  that  hot  chocolate 
was  an  invention  of  the  Castilians.  The 
first  of  these  writers,  who  lived  at  the  end 
of  the  sixteenth  century,  says  so  positively  ; 
in  his  time  it  had  been  used  for  only  a  few 
years. 

"  Would  you  know  now  what  chocolate 
was  when  the  learned  Antonio  Colmenero 
de  Ledesma  gave  his  receipt  ?  I  copy  it  for 
you  here  :  — 

"  'Take  a  hundred  cacao  kernels,  two 


EARLY    USE.  35 

heads  of  Chili  or  long  peppers,  a  handful 
of  anise  or  orjevala,  and  two  of  mesachusil 
or  vanilla,  —  or,  instead,  six  Alexandria 
roses,  powdered,  —  two  drachms  of  cinna- 
mon, a  dozen  almonds  and  as  many  hazel- 
nuts, a  half  pound  of  white  sugar,  and 
annotto  enough  to  color  it,  and  you  have  the 
king  of  chocolates.' 

"  I  must  say  a  word  concerning  another 
substance  allied  to  the  chocolate,  beloved 
of  the  Americans.  I  speak  of  atola,  which 
has  been  handed  down  to  us.  There  was 
the  atola  of  dry  and  of  green  maize  ;  the 
latter  was  served  on  elegant  tables.  Com- 
posed of  maize  in  the  milky  stage,  sweet- 
ened with  the  vegetable  honey  of  the  agave, 
sometimes,  also,  flavored  with  excellent 
vanilla,  it  had  the  appearance  of  blanc- 
mange. On  this  mixture  was  poured  choco- 
late prepared  cold.  It  can  be  understood 
how  the  most  delicate  palates  could  relish 
it.  I  say  nothing  here  of  the  coarse 
mixtures  of  dry  flour,  or  frisoles,  which 


36  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

were  mixed  -with  the  cacao ;  it  was  a 
vulgar  food,  endurable  only  by  the  com- 
mon people. 

u  Not  to  leave  too  incomplete  this  sketch 
of  various  antiquities,  often  examined,  but 
still  obscure,  I  must  touch  upon  the  still 
less  familiar  subject  of  American  ceramics, 
which  will  not  be  the  least  curious  para- 
graph. The  Mexicans  had  vases  specially 
set  apart  for  beverages  of  the  most  varied 
description,  which  were  served  at  their  fes- 
tivals, from  the  ordinary  pulque  to  the  most 
delicate  octli.  There  were  among  them, 
without  doubt,  chocolate  pots  of  great 
value.  The  historian  of  King  Tezozomoc 
leaver  us  no  doubt  on  this  subject.  He 
names,  it  is  true,  a  series  of  ornamented 
vases  without  making  us  acquainted  with 
their  special  use ;  but  he  is  much  more  ex- 
plicit when  he  speaks  of  a  cup,  ready  made 
by  nature,  but  which  the  goldsmith's  art 
had  covered  with  the  most  elegant  orna- 
ments.     Thanks   to   him,  we   know   that 


EARLY  USE.  37 

cocoa  was  offered  to  distinguished  person- 
ages in  a  tortoise  shell,  highly  polished  and 
ornamented  with  gold  arabesques.  And  it 
was  very  probably  in  this  manner  that  Fer- 
nando Cortez  drank  his  first  chocolate." 

The  Spaniards  thus  early  acquired  a 
knowledge  of  the  fruit  and  of  the  manner 
of  preparing  it,  which  they  kept  secret  for 
many  years,  selling  it  very  profitably  as 
chocollat  to  the  wealthy  and  luxurious 
classes  of  Europe.  But  it  was,  as  already 
stated,  an  expensive  preparation,  and  did 
not  come  into  use  until  long  after  the  public 
coffee-houses  of  London  were  established. 

Says  Brillat-Savarin,  in  his  famous  "  Phys- 
iologic du  Gout,"  "  Chocolate  came  over 
the  mountains  [from  Spain  to  France]  with 
Anne  of  Austria,  daughter  of  Philip  III., 
and  Queen  of  Louis  XIII.  The  Spanish 
monks  also  spread  the  knowledge  of  it  by 
the  presents  they  made  to  their  brothers  in 
France.   The  various  ambassadors  of  Spain 


38  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

also  contributed  to  bring  it  into  fashion ; 
and  at  the  beginning  of  the  Regency  it 
was  more  universally  in  use  than  coffee, 
inasmuch  as  it  was  taken  as  an  agreeable 
article  of  food,  while  coffee  still  passed 
only  for  a  beverage  of  luxury  and  a  curios- 
ity. It  is  well  known  that  Linnaeus  called 
the  fruit  of  the  cocoa-tree  theobroma  '  food 
for  the  gods.'  The  cause  of  this  emphatic 
qualification  has  been  sought,  and  attributed 
by  some  to  the  fact  that  he  was  extrava- 
gantly fond  of  chocolate ;  by  others  to  his 
desire  to  please  his  confessor ;  and  by 
others  to  his  gallantry,  a  queen  having  first 
introduced  it  into  France." 

The  Spanish  ladies  of  the  New  World,  it 
is  said,  carry  their  love  for  chocolate  to  such 
a  degree  that,  not  content  with  partaking  of  it 
several  times  a  day,  they  have  it  sometimes 
carried  after  them  to  church.  This  favor- 
ing of  the  senses  often  drew  upon  them  the 
censures  of  the  bishop  ;  but  the  Reverend 
Father  Escobar,  whose  metaphysics  were  as 


EARLY   USE.  39 

subtle  as  his  morality  was  accommodating, 
declared,  formally,  that  a  fast  was  not  bro- 
ken by  chocolate  prepared  with  water; 
thus  wire-drawing,  in  favor  of  his  peni- 
tents, the  ancient  adage:  i(,Liquidujn  non 
frangit  je  junium" 

The  earliest  intimation  of  the  introduc- 
tion of  cocoa  into  England  is  found  in  an 
announcement  in  the  Public  Advertiser  of 
Tuesday,  16th  June,  1657  (more  than  a 
hundred  and  thirty  years  after  its  introduc- 
tion into  Spain),  stating  that  "in  Bishops- 
gate  street,  in  Queen's  Head  alley,  at  a 
Frenchman's  house,  is  an  excellent  West 
India  drink,  called  chocolate,  to  be  sold, 
where  you  may  have  it  ready  at  any  time ; 
and  also  unmade,  at  reasonable  rates." 

Two  years  later,  in  the  Mercurius  Po- 
liticus  for  June,  1659,  it  is  stated  that 
"  Chocolate,  an  excellent  West  India  drink, 
is  sold  in  Queen's  Head  alley,  in  Bishops- 
gate  street,  by  a  Frenchman  who  did  for- 


40  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

merly  sell  it  in  Grace  Church  street,  and 
Clement's  Churchyard,  being  the  first  man 
who  did  sell  it  in  England  ;  and  its  virtues 
are  highly  extolled." 

A  book  written  in  the  time  of  Charles 
II.,  entitled  "  The  Indian  Nectar,  or  a 
Discourse  concerning  Chocolate,  etc.," 
says  the  best  kind  can  be  purchased  of  one 
Mortimer,  "  an  honest  though  poor  man, 
living  in  East  Smithfield,"  for  6s.  8d.  per 
pound,  and  commoner  sorts  for  about  half 
that  price. 

About  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth 
century  chocolate  had  become  an  exceed- 
ingly fashionable  beverage,  and  the  cocoa- 
tree  was  a  favorite  sign  and  name  for  places 
of  public  refreshment.  Cocoa  and  choco- 
late are  frequently  mentioned  in  contem- 
porary literature  ;  and  among  others  Pope, 
in  his  u  Rape  of  the  Lock,"  alludes  to  it ; 
the  negligent  spirit,  fixed  like  Ixion,  — 

"  In  fumes  of  burning  chocolate  shall  glow, 
And  tremble  at  the  sea  that  froths  below." 


EARLY    USE.  41 

Down  to  a  late  period  (1832)  the  con- 
sumption of  cocoa  in  England  was  confined 
within  very  narrow  limits,  owing  to  the 
oppressiveness  of  the  duties  with  which  it 
was  loaded.  The  ruin  of  the  cocoa  plan- 
tations which  once  flourished  in  Jamaica 
was  caused,  says  Mr.  Bryan  Edwards,  the 
historian,  by  the  heavy  hand  of  ministerial 
exaction.  In  1832  the  duty  on  cocoa  from 
a  British  possession  was  reduced  from  6d. 
to  2d.  per  pound.  The  result  was  that  the 
consumption  which,  during  the  three  years 
ending  in  1831,  averaged  only  440,578 
pounds  a  year,  shortly  increased  to  an 
average  of  2,072,335  pounds.  The  duty  of 
6d.  per  pound  on  rofei&n  cocoa  was  con- 
tinued some  $meuonger;  but  in  1853  the 
duties  were  finally  equalized  and  fixed  at 
id.  per  pound,  and  on  paste  or  chocolate 
at  2d.  The  duties  on  husks  and  shells 
were  reduced  to  2s.  per  cwt.  in  1855. 

It  is  stated,  on  what  appears  to  be  good 


42  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

authority,1  that  the  chocolate-mill  erected 
on  Neponset  river,  in  the  town  of  Dor- 
chester, Mass,  in  1765*  was  the  first  mill 
of  that  kind  established  in  the  British  prov- 
inces of  North  America.  It  was  connected 
with  a  saw-mill,  operated  by  water-power, 
and  was  regarded  as  a  somewhat  doubtful 
experiment.  Its  establishment  was  due  to 
the  representations  made  by  John  Hannan, 
an  Irish  immigrant,  who  had  learned  the 
business  of  chocolate-making  in  England. 
The  new  industry  prospered  in  a  small 
way,  and  on  the  death  of  Hannan,  in  1780, 
Dr.  James  Baker  established  the  house 
which  has  continued  the  business  without 
interruption  from  that  day  to  this. 

In  the  early  days  the  crude  cocoa  was 
brought  to  the  American  market  by  the 
Massachusetts  traders,  who  received  it  in 
exchange  for  the  fish  and  other  articles 
which  they  shipped  to  the  West  Indies  and 

1  History  of  the  town  of  Dorchester,  Mass.,  1857. 


EARLY   USE.  43 

Central  and  South  America  ;  and  the  direct 
connection  with  the  producers,  thus  early 
established,  has  ever  since  been  maintained. 

In  giving  an  account  of  the  manufact- 
ures in  Boston,  in  1794,  J.  L.  Bishop,  in 
his  "  History  of  American  Manufactures," 
says:  "Chocolate  had  been  long  made 
from  the  large'quantities  of  cocoa  obtained 
in  the  West  India  trade,  and  had  been 
greatly  expedited  by  recent  inventions. 
The  chocolate-mill  of  Mr.  Welsh,  at  the 
North  End,  could  turn  out  2,500  cwt. 
daily." 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  on  the  spot  where 
the  industry  was  first  started,  nearly  a 
century  and  a  quarter  ago,  the  business  has 
continued  and  attained  the  highest  develop- 
ment. From  the  small  beginning1  by  Dr. 
Baker  there  has  grown  up  one  of  the 
greatest  establishments  in  the  world,  —  the 
house  of  Walter  Baker  &  Co.,  —  an  estab- 
lishment which  competes  successfully  for 
prizes  in  all  the  great  industrial  exhibitions 


44  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE. 

of  the  world,  whose  influence  is  felt  in  the 
great  commercial  centres,  and  whose  pros- 
perity promotes  the  welfare  of  men  who 
labor  under  a  tropical  sun  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of  one  of  the  choicest  fruits  of  the 
earth. 


PROPERTIES,    ETC.  45 


IV. 


PROPERTIES,    ETC, 


THE  most  thorough  and  comprehensive 
analysis  of  the  properties  of  cocoa  is 
given  by  J.  Alfred  Wanklyn,  in  "  A  Prac- 
tical Treatise  on  the  Analysis  of  Tea,  Cof- 
fee, Cocoa,  Chocolate,  etc.,"  published  in 
London,  in  1874.  The  following  table  gives 
the  results  obtained  by  the  leading  authori- 
ties :  — 


46 


COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 


8     § 

6     o6 

U-»            (-1 

O   O                    O   O   O         O         O 

q  q               vq  q  io     *q       co 
d  co               c4  vd  ^       co      d 

o 
q 

d 
o 

u 

II 

Si 

o  o 
q  q 

O   O                    CO   iovO   N         to        ^t 

^9  9               9999      9      *"! 

d-^-                vo  co^m        co       cK 

o 
q 

d 
o 

k 

O  S) 

n 

o       o 
o       o 

9    8 

o       o           o  o  o 
q       q           9  9  9 

VO          CO               M    N    rj- 

o 
q 

d 
o 

■3    . 

S3 

>>2 

o  o 
q  q 

6  6 

o  o           o  o  o  o  o 
oq           o  oqoq 

8 

d 
o 

a 

8 

a 

1 

o 
q 

vo 

o             o                     o  o 
9            9                    9  9 

d            n                    ion 

o 
q 

d 
o 

a 
1 

O          O 

q       q 
ci       6 

O                O          09    O    O    O 

q            q       <uqqq 
d            n       rt  d  ci  ■<*• 

o 
q 

d 
o 

3 

1 

1 

o  o 

COCO 

h   i^O                -i    O                            CO 
ONN  ON                 O    N                                  rj- 

6   NO                «ifl                           •-< 

o 
q 

d 

o 

C/3 

i 

»-l 

I5  • 
4:2 

go    • 
o.S.S 
US  £  e 

^££^ 

CO  ■— J  •— J  •  — 

"                     jd  ^     .5         IS  w 

— i                               CJ     9     »^     r^              s_i 

3 

o 

PROPERTIES,    ETC. 


47 


"  The  most  abundant  constituent  of  the 
seed,"  says  Wanklyn,  "  is  the  fat,  or  cocoa- 
butter,  which  constitutes  about  one-half  of 
the  entire  seed.  Owing,  no  doubt,  to  this 
circumstance,  the  specific  gravity  of  the 
seeds  is  less  than  unity,  and  they  float  on 
water.  After  being  kept  for  some  days 
in  contact  with  the  water  some  of  the  fat 
makes  its  escape,  and  the  seeds  sink  to  the 
bottom. 

"  I  attach  great  importance  to  the  deter- 
mination of  the  ash.  The  following  deter- 
minations of  ash  have  been  recently  made 
in  my  laboratory  :  — 


Common  Trinidad     . 

Percentage  of 
Ash. 

•    3-37 

Very  fine  Trinidad    .     .     . 
Fair,  good,  fine  Trinidad    . 
Fine  Granada 

.    3.62 
.    3.64 
.    3.12 

Medium  Granada  .... 

.    3.06 

Caracas  

Eahia  (Brazil)       .... 

.    4.58 
•     3-3i 

48 


COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE. 


Percentage  of 

Ash. 

Fine  Surinam 

. 

. 

3.06 

Fine  Surinam 

(small) 

. 

3-i5 

Mexican 

.      .     . 

. 

4.27 

Dominican  . 

2.82 

African  .     . 

2.68 

The  mean  of  the  twelve  be] 

ng 

. 

3-39 

"  Separate  determinations  of  the  ash  of 
the  nib  and  the  shell  have  also  been  made. 
In  the  nib  of  the  Caracas  the  ash  amounted 
to  3.95  per  cent.,  whereof  2 .00  was  soluble 
in  water,  and  1 .95  insoluble  in  water. 

"  In  the  nib  of  the  Mexican  seeds  the  ash 
was  found  to  be  2.59  per  cent.,  whereof 
0.89  was  soluble,  and  1.70  insoluble,  in 
water.  The  shell  (which,  as  mentioned 
above,  formed  only  a  very  small  portion  of 
the  entire  seed)  is  much  richer  in  mineral 
matter  or  ash.  I  have  found  as  much  as 
7.81  per  cent,  of  ash  in  the  shell.  The 
composition  of  the  ash  of  the  shell  is  very 
different  from  that  of  the  nib  ;  whilst  the 


PROPERTIES,    ETC. 


49 


ash  of  the  shell  is  rich  in  carbonates  that 
of  the  nib  is  almost  devoid  of  carbon- 
ates. 

u  A  very  careful  analysis  of  the  ash  of  the 
entire  seed  has  been  recently  made  by  my 
friend,  Mr.  Wm.  Bettel,  in  my  laboratory. 
The  results  are  as  follows  :  — 

"  Composition  of  ash  of  the  entire  seeds 
(Caracas),  — 


Potash  K20 

29.81 

Chloride  of  Sodium  Na  CI 

6.10 

Peroxide  of  Iron  Fi2  03     .     . 

1.60 

Alumina  Al2  03  .     .     .     . 

2.40 

Lime  Ca  0     .     .     .     . 

•       7-72 

Magnesia  Mg  O  .     .     . 

7.90 

Phosphoric  Acid  P2  Os 

.     24.28 

Sulphuric  Acid  S  03    . 

1.92 

Carbonic  Acid  C  02     . 

.       0.98 

Silica  Si  02     .     .     .     . 

.       5.00 

Sand 

I2.IC 

■"••"• x  j 

99.86 


50  COCOA  AND   CHOCOLATE. 

"  From  this  analysis  it  is  apparent  that 
the  main  constituent  of  the  ash  is  phos- 
phate of  potash,  and  that  there  is  almost 
total  absence  of  carbonates.  The  ash  of 
the  shell  being,  as  has  been  said,  highly 
charged  with  carbonates,  it  follows  that, 
in  obtaining  the  ash  of  the  entire  seed,  we 
cause  the  phosphates  of  the  nib  to  decom- 
pose the  carbonates  of  the  shell,  and  so  ob- 
tain an  ash  devoid  of  carbonates. 

"  The  large  proportion  of  phosphate  of 
potash  in  cocoa  (certainly  not  far  from  one 
per  cent,  in  the  seed  of  good  quality) 
is  worthy  the  attention  of  the  physician, 
and  no  doubt  gives  an  especial  value  to  a 
dietary  consisting  largely  of  cocoa.  It  will 
further  be  observed  that  the  fine  kinds  of 
cocoa-seeds  are  rich  in  phosphate  of  pot- 
ash  

"Mixtures  of  cocoa  with  starch  and 
sugar  have  long  been  perfectly  legitimate, 
provided  no  deception  as  to  the  strength  in 
cocoa  be  practised." 


PROPERTIES,    ETC.  51 

In  conclusion  he  says :  "  The  prepara- 
tions of  cocoa  constitute  food  rather  than 
drink,  being  highly  nutritious  in  every 
sense  of  the  term.  The  fat  present  in 
cocoa  —  viz. ,  the  cocoa-butter  —  appears  to 
be  of  a  particularly  available  description. 
It  is  said  never  to  become  rancid,  and 
merits  an  elaborate  examination.  Whether 
it  be  owing  to  peculiarities  in  the  fat  of 
cocoa,  or  whether  it  be  the  theobromine 
that  is  particularly  efficient,  certain  it  is 
that  cocoa  will  sometimes  nourish  when 
nothing  else  will,  and  cocoa  is  occasionally 
invaluable  to  the  physician." 


52       COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE. 


VALUE  AS  FOOD. 

DR.  EDWARD  SMITH,  LL.B., 
F.R.S.,  in  his  valuable  work  on 
"  Foods,"  for  the  International  Scientific 
Series,  says :  — 

"  These  well-known  substances  (cocoa 
and  chocolate)  are  valuable  foods,  since 
they  are  not  only  allied  to  tea  and  coffee 
as  respiratory  excitants,  but  possess  a 
large  quantity  of  fat  and  other  food  mate- 
rials.    .     .     . 

"  The  following  is  the  analysis  of  the 
cocoa-bean,  from  various  localities,  by 
Tuchen :  — 

Surinam.  Caracas.  Para.  Trinidad. 

Theobromine,  per.  ct.  0.56  0.55  0.66  0.48 
Cocoa,  red  .  .  .  6.61  6.18  6.18  6.22 
Cocoa-butter  .     .     .  36.97  35.08  34.48  36.42 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  53 

Surinam.  Caracas.  Para.  Trinidad. 

Gluten 3.20  3.21  2.99  3.15 

Starch 0.55  0.62  0.28  0.51 

Gum 0.69  1. 19  0.78  0.61 

Extractive  matter     .  4.14  6.22  6.02  5.48 

Humic  acid     .     .     .  7.25  9.28  8.63  9.25 

Cellulose    ....  30.00  28.66  30.21  29.86 

Salts 3.00  2.91  3.00  2.98 

Water 6.01  5.58  5.55  4.88 

"  This  substance,"  he  goes  on  to  say, 
"  in  its  action  is  less  exciting  to  the  ner- 
vous system  than  tea  or  coffee,  and  at  the 
same  time  it  contains  a  much  larger  pro- 
portion of  nutritive  material.  Moreover, 
its  flavor  is  not  lessened  by  the  addition  of 
milk,  so  that  it  can  be  boiled  in  milk  only, 
and  thus  produce  a  most  agreeable  and 
nutritious  food.  There  are,  therefore, 
many  persons,  states  of  system  and  cir- 
cumstances, in  which  its  use  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  either  tea  or  coffee." 


54  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

A  writer  in  Blackwood's  Magazine 
(1854,  V.  75)  says:  "  Of  all  the  varieties 
of  ordinary  human  food  cocoa  has  the 
closest  resemblance  to  milk ; "  and  he 
gives  the  following  analyses  of  dried  milk 
and  the  dried  kernel  of  the  cocoa-bean :  — 

Cocoa-Beans.    Dried  Milk. 

Gluten  or  Caseine       .     .  18  .     .  35 

Starch  or  Sugar     ...  23  ..  37 

Fat 55  ..  24 

Mineral  matter      ...  4  .     .  4 

"  These  numbers  show,"  he  says,  "  that 
the  bean  is  rich  in  all  the  important  nutri- 
tious principles  which  are  found  to  coexist 
in  our  most  valued  forms  of  ordinary  food. 
It  differs  from  milk  chiefly  in  the  larger 
proportion  of  fat  it  contains,  and  hence  it 
cannot  be  used  so  largely  without  admixt- 
ure as  the  more  familiar  milk.  When 
mixed  with  water,  however,  it  is  more 
properly  compared    with    milk  than  with 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  55 

the  infusions  of  little  direct  nutritive 
value,  like  those  of  tea  and  coffee ;  and,  on 
the  other  hand,  it  has  the  great  advantage 
over  milk,  over  beef-tea,  and  other  similar 
beverages,  that  it  contains  the  substance 
theobromine  and  the  volatile  empyrematic 
oil,  —  both  possessed  of  very  valuable 
properties.  Thus  it  unites  in  itself  the 
exhilarating  and  other  special  qualities 
which  distinguish  tea,  with  the  strengthen- 
ing and  ordinary  body- supporting  qualities 
of  milk." 

Brillat-Savarin,  from  whose  work  we 
have  already  quoted,  says  :  — 

"  Chocolate  has  given  rise  to  profound 
dissertations,  whose  object  has  been  to  de- 
termine its  nature  and  properties,  and  to 
place  it  in  the  category  of  hot,  cold,  or 
temperate  foods  ;  and  it  must  be  confessed 
that  these  learned  writings  have  contributed 
but  very  slightly  to  the  demonstration  of 
the  truth. 


56  COCOA  AND   CHOCOLATE. 

"  But  it  was  left  for  those  two  great  mas- 
ters, time  and  experience,  to  decide  that 
chocolate,  carefully  prepared,  is  an  article 
of  food  as  wholesome  as  it  is  agreeable ; 
that  it  is  nourishing,  easy  of  digestion,  and 
does  not  possess  those  qualities  injurious  to 
beauty  with  which  coffee  has  been  re- 
proached ;  that  it  is  excellently  adapted  to 
persons  who  are  obliged  to  a  great  concen- 
tration of  intellect  in  the  toils  of  the  pulpit 
or  the  bar,  and  especially  to  travellers ; 
that  it  suits  the  most  feeble  stomach  ;  that 
excellent  effects  have  been  produced  by  it 
in  chronic  complaints,  and  that  it  is  a  last 
resource  in  affections  of  the  pylorus. 

"  The  various  properties  are  due  to  the 
fact  that,  chocolate  being,  strictly  speak- 
ing, only  an  elasosaccharum  (oil  of  sugar) , 
there  are  few  substances  which  contain 
in  an  equal  volume  more  nourishing  par- 
ticles, —  the  consequence  being  that  it  is 
almost   entirely   assimilated. 

"  During  the  war  (of  the  Spanish  Sue- 


VALUE    AS   FOOD. 


tfSl 

&XJ67 


cession)  cocoa  was  scarce,  and  very  dear. 
It  was  attempted  to  find  a  substitute,  but 
all  efforts  were  in  vain ;  and  one  of  the 
greatest  benefits  of  the  peace  was  the  re- 
lieving us  of  the  various  brews,  which  it 
was  necessary  to  taste  out  of  politeness, 
but  which  were  no  more  like  chocolate 
than  the  infusion  of  chiccory  was  like 
Mocha    coffee. 

"  Some  persons  complain  of  being  unable 
to  digest  chocolate  ;  others,  on  the  con- 
trary, pretend  that  it  has  not  sufficient 
nourishment,  and  that  the  effect  disappears 
too  soon.  It  is  probable  that  the  former 
have  only  themselves  to  blame,  and  that 
the  chocolate  which  they  use  is  of  bad 
quality  or  badly  made  ;  for  good  and  well- 
made  chocolate  must  suit  every  stomach 
which  retains  the  slightest  digestive  power. 

"  In  regard  to  the  others  the  remedy  is 
an  easy  one ;  they  should  reenforce  their 
breakfast  with  a  pate,  a  cutlet,  or  a  kid- 
ney ;    moisten    the    whole    with    a  good 


58  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

draught  of  soconusco  chocolate,  and  thank 
God  for  a  stomach  of  such  superior  ac- 
tivity. 

"  This  gives  me  an  opportunity  to  make 
an  observation  whose  accuracy  may  be 
depended  upon. 

"  After  a  good,  complete  and  copious 
breakfast,  if  we  take  in  addition  a  cup  of 
well-made  chocolate,  digestion  will  be 
perfectly  accomplished  in  three  hours,  and 
we  may  dine  whenever  we  like.  Out  of 
zeal  for  science,  and  by  dint  of  eloquence, 
I  have  induced  many  ladies  to  try  this 
experiment.  They  all  declared,  in  the  be- 
ginning, that  it  would  kill  them  ;  but  they 
have  all  thriven  on  it,  and  have  not  failed 
to  glorify  their  teacher. 

M  The  people  who  make  constant  use  of 
chocolate  are  the  ones  who  enjoy  the 
most  steady  health,  and  are  the  least  sub- 
ject to  a  multitude  of  little  ailments  which 
destroy  the  comfort  of  life ;  their  plump- 
ness is  also  more  equal.     These  are  two 


VALUE    AS    FOOD.  59 

advantages  -which  every  one  may  verify 
among  his  own  friends,  and  wherever  the 
practice  is  in  use. 

"  This  is  the  place  to  speak  of  the  prop- 
erties of  chocolate  with  amber, — properties 
which  I  have  proved  with  many  experi- 
ments, and  the  results  of  which  I  am 
proud  to  offer  to  my  readers. 

"  Let  every  man,  then,  who  has  drunk 
too  deep  of  the  cup  of  pleasure  ;  every  man 
who  has  spent  in  work  the  time  which 
should  be  devoted  to  sleep  ;  every  man  of 
wit  who  feels  himself  temporarily  growing 
stupid ;  every  man  who  finds  the  air 
damp,  the  time  long,  and  the  atmosphere 
difficult  to  endure  ;  every  man  who  is  tor- 
mented with  a  fixed  idea  which  takes 
away  from  him  the  liberty  of  thought,  —  let 
all  these,  I  say,  administer  to  themselves 
a  good  half-litre  of  amber  chocolate,  in  the 
proportion  of  sixty  or  seventy  grains  of 
amber  to  the  pound,  and  they  will  see 
wonders. 


60  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE. 

"In  my  particular  way  of  specifying 
things  I  call  amber  chocolate  chocolate 
for  the  afflicted,  because  each  one  of 
these  various  conditions  which  I  have 
designated  has  something  in  common 
which   resembles    affliction." 

M.  Boussingault,1  a  member  of  the 
French  Institute,  in  an  interesting  paper 
printed  in  the  "  Annates  de  Physique  et 
du  Chimic"  says  :  — 

u  Chocolate  contains  a  very  large  pro- 
portion of  nutritive  matter  in  a  small  vol- 
ume. In  an  expedition  to  a  great  distance, 
where  it  is  imperatively  necessary  to  re- 
duce the  weight  of  the  rations,  chocolate 
offers  undeniable  advantages,  as  I  have 
had  frequent  occasions  to  notice.  Hum- 
boldt recalls  what  has  been  said  with 
reason,    that    in   Africa    rice,    gum,    and 

1  Jean  Baptiste  Joseph  Dieudonne"  Boussingault,  French 
chemist,  served  in  his  youth  on  the  staff  of  Bolivar,  the 
liberator  of  South  America. 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  61 

butter  enable  men  to  cross  the  desert ;  and 
he  adds  that,  in  the  New  World,  chocolate 
and  corn-meal  render  the  plateaus  of  the 
Andes,  and  the  vast,  uninhabited  forests, 
accessible  to  man. 

"In  Central  America,  when  they  organ- 
ize a  river  expedition,  or  traverse  the  for- 
ests, they  prepare  chocolate  for  provision 
with  eighty  parts  of  cocoa  to  twenty  of 
coarse  sugar,  the  composition  being  as  fol- 
lows :  — 

Sugar 200 

Butter 410 

Albumen 100 

Phosphates  and  salts 30 

Other  matter 260 


1,000 


"  Each  man  receives  60  grammes  (about  2 
ounces)  of  this  chocolate  per  day,  in  which 
there  are  1 2  grammes  of  sugar,  26  of  butter, 


62  COCOA  AND   CHOCOLATE. 

and  6  of  albumen.  It  is  a  useful  addition 
to  the  ration  formed  of  beef  slightly  salted 
and  dried  in  the  air,  of  rice,  of  corn  bis- 
cuit, or  of  cassava  muffins. 

"  The  infusion  of  tea,  mate  (Paraguay 
tea) ,  and  coffee  are  not,  of  course,  to  be  con- 
sidered as  food.  The  amount  of  solid 
matter  in  them  is  very  slight,  and  their 
effects  are  due  only  to  their  alkaloids. 

"  This  is  not  true  of  chocolate,  which  is 
at  the  same  time  complete  food  and  an 
active  excitant,  since  it  approaches  in  com- 
position that  model  food,  milk.  In  fact 
we  have  seen  that  in  cocoa  there  is  legu- 
mine  and  albumen,  associated  with  fat, 
sugar  to  sustain  respiratory  combustion, 
phosphates,  which  are  the  basis  of  the 
bones,  and  —  what  milk  does  not  have 
—  theobromine  and  a  delicate  aroma. 
Roasted,  ground  and  mixed  with  sugar, 
cocoa  becomes  chocolate,  the  nutritive 
properties  of  which  astonished  the  Spanish 
soldiers  that  invaded  Mexico." 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  63 

A  competent  writer,  in  the  last  edition  of 
the  "  Encyclopaedia  Britannica,"  says:  — 

u  The  constitution  upon  which  the  pecul- 
iar value  of  cocoa  depends  is  the  theobro- 
mine, an  alkaloid  substance,  which  till  re- 
cently was  supposed  to  be  distinct  from, 
though  closely  allied  to,  the  theine  of  tea  and 
coffee.  It  is  now,  however,  known  that  the 
alkaloid  in  these,  and  in  two  or  three  other 
substances  similarly  used,  is  identical,  and 
their  physiological  value  is  consequently 
the  same.  The  fat,  or  cocoa-butter,  is  a 
firm,  solid  white  substance,  at  ordinary 
temperature,  having  an  agreeable  taste  and 
odor,  and  very  remarkable  for  its  freedom 
from  any  tendency  to  become  rancid.  It 
consists  essentially  of  stearin,  with  a  little 
olein,  and  is  used  in  surgical  practice,  and 
in  France  as  a  material  for  soap  and 
pomade   manufacture. 

44  The  starch  grains  present  in  raw  cocoa 
are  small  in  size,  and  of  a  character  so 
peculiar  that  there  is  no  difficulty  in  dis- 


64  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

tinguishing  them  under  the  microscope 
from  any  other  starch  granules.  As  an 
article  of  food  cocoa  differs  essentially  from 
both  tea  and  coffee.  While  only  an  in- 
fusion of  these  substances  is  used,  leaving 
a  large  proportion  of  their  total  weight 
unconsumed,  the  entire  substance  of  the 
cocoa-seeds  is  prepared  as  an  emulsion  for 
drinking,  and  the  whole  is  thus  utilized 
within  the  system.  While  the  contents  of 
a  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  can  thus  only  be  re- 
garded as  stimulant  in  its  effect,  and  almost 
entirely  destitute  of  essential  nutritive  prop- 
erties, a  cup  of  prepared  cocoa  is  really  a 
most  nourishing  article  of  diet,  as,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  value  of  the  theobromine  it  con- 
tains, it  introduces  into  the  system  no  incon- 
siderable portion  of  valuable  nitrogenous 
and  oleaginous  elements." 

M.  Arthur  Mangin,  in  his  valuable 
work,  "  Le  Cacao  et  le  Chocolat"  pub- 
lished   in    1862,    gives    some   very    good 


VALUE    AS    FOOD.  65 

reasons  for  promoting  the  use  of  cocoa. 
He  says :  — 

"  Cocoa  cannot  be  considered  in  any  re- 
spect an  article  of  luxury.  It  is  not  a 
dainty ;  its  hygienic  and  nutritive  prop- 
erties are  unquestionable  and  unquestioned, 
and  its  being  endowed  with  an  aroma  and 
flavor  which  please  the  sense  of  smell  and 
the  palate  is  no  reason  at  all  for  its  not 
being  reckoned  among  articles  of  food, 
properly  so  called.  Its  cultivation,  trans- 
port and  preparation  furnish  occupation 
and  support  to  a  multitude  of  laborers,  and 
its  consumption  should  be  respected  and 
encouraged  by  all  wise  governments,  not 
only  because  it  is  physically  beneficial,  but, 
and  we  do  not  hesitate  to  say  it,  because 
it  is  mora/fy  salutary. 

"  Coffee,  of  which  much  good  can  hon- 
estly be  said,  is,  however,  open  to  much 
criticism,  as  well  on  account  of  its  physio- 
logical effects  as  its  influence  on  public 
morals.     It  can   be  abused   and  misused. 


66  COCOA   AND   CHOCOLATE. 

Its  infusion  is  an  exciting  beverage,  which 
does  not  agree  with  every  one,  and  which 
may,  when  used  to  excess,  cause  serious 
consequences,  decidedly  affect  the  health, 
and  even  disturb  the  intellectual  faculties. 
Coffee,  moreover,  easily  becomes  a  pretext 
for  debauch.  It  is  consumed  in  the  most 
respectable  houses  ;  but  also  in  cafes,  liquor 
saloons  and  disreputable  places,  with  the 
accompaniments  of  alcoholic  liquors,  to- 
bacco-smoke, coarse  words,  and  unlawful 
games. 

"  It  is  impossible  to  impute  the  like  effects 
to  chocolate.  Its  use  can  never  degenerate 
into  abuse,  and  it  can  never,  like  coffee, 
become  a  poison,  even  a  slow  poison.  And 
then,  whatever  certain  casuists  may  say, 
chocolate  is  decidedly  a  food,  not  a  bever- 
age. More,  it  is,  above  all,  the  food  of 
sober,  orderly,  and  peaceable  folk.  It  is 
found  only  on  the  family  table,  at  parties 
of  good  society,  or  in  public  establishments 
frequented  either  by  well-bred  people   or 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  67 

hard-working  mechanics.  We  do  not  play- 
cards  or  smoke  while  we  drink  chocolate, 
and  after  it  we  take  no  brandy  ;  we  drink, 
perhaps,  a  glass  of  cold  water,  and  go 
peaceably  back  to  our  work  or  to  look  after 
our  affairs. 

"  The  well-known  proverb,  '  People  are 
known  by  the  company  they  keep/  would 
lose  none  of  its  force  if  altered  to  read : 
4  Tell  me  what  you  eat  and  drink,  and  I 
will  tell  you  who  you  are.'  Breakfast, 
especially,  is  the  characteristic  repast, 
which  gives  the  surest  indications  as  to  the 
morality  of  civilized  men.  The  man  who 
eats  a  substantial  meat  breakfast,  and  fol- 
lows it  up  with  coffee  and  liquors,  may 
certainly  be  a  very  honest  man,  but  he  is 
not  a  temperate  man,  and  one  might  wager 
that  after  such  a  repast  he  will  do  very- 
little.  Be  assured,  on  the  contrary,  that 
he  who  breakfasts  on  milk,  coffee,  or  choco- 
late has  few  physical  wants  ;  that  his  sen- 
suality,  if   he   be   sensual,   is    mild    and 


68  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

moderate,  and  that  the  man  in  him  has  the 
mastery  over  he  animal.  Let  govern- 
ments load  with  high  duties  all  spirituous 
liquors, — luxurious  beverages  for  the  rich, 
but  utter  poison  for  the  people,  —  agents  of 
depravity,  demoralization,  and  degenera- 
tion, equally  fatal  to  public  morals  and 
public  health ;  let  them  impose  an  arbi- 
trary tax  on  tobacco,  and  even  monopolize 
the  sale  at  fictitious  prices ;  let  them  do 
likewise  with  playing-cards  and  other 
articles  which  supply  merely  imaginary 
wants, — these  are  measures  whose  political 
legitimacy  or  economic  utility  may  be  at- 
tacked, but  which  cannot  be  contested  as 
contrary  to  the  popular  interest,  or  to  the 
increase  of  its  comfort  or  its  moral  im- 
provement. 

u  Cocoa  is,  on  the  contrary,  among  the 
few  articles  —  it  is  perhaps  the  only  one 
— whose  sale  should  be  not  only  released 
from  all  constraint,  but  encouraged  and 
extended,  because  it  is  the  only  article  of 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  69 

food  to  which  may  be  applied  the  appar- 
ently strange  and  paradoxical  qualification 
—  morally  improving  food.  We  have  just 
shown  that  this  qualification  suits  it  in  all 
respects.  It  is  proved,  beside,  that  cocoa 
enters  too  largely  into  popular  consump- 
tion, that  it  forms  too  great  an  addition  to 
the  sum  of  the  food  substances  already  ex- 
isting, for  it  to  be  reckoned  henceforth 
among  luxuries  subject  to  sumptuary 
laws." 

Dr.  Edmund  A.  Parkes,  F.R.S.,  in  his 
u  Manual  of  Practical  Hygiene,  prepared 
especially  for  use  in  the  Medical  Service 
of  the  Army"   (London,   1864),  says:  — 

"  Although  the  theobromine  of  cocoa  is 
now  known  to  be  identical  with  theineand 
caffeine,  the  composition  of  cocoa  removes 
it  widely  from  tea  and  coffee.  The  quan- 
tity of  fat  varies  even  in  the  same  sort  of 
cocoa.  The  ash  contains  a  large  quantity  of 
phosphate  of  potash.     The  larger  quantity 


70  COCOA  AND    CHOCOLATE. 

of  fat  makes  it  a  very  nourishing  article  of 
diet,  and  it  is  therefore  useful  in  weak 
states  of  the  system,  and  for  healthy  men 
under  circumstances  of  great  exertion.  It 
has  even  been  compared  to  milk.  In 
South  America  cocoa  and  maize  cakes  are 
used  by  travellers,  and  the  large  amount 
of  agreeable  nourishment  in  small  bulk 
enables  several  days'  supplies  to  be  easily 
carried.  By  roasting,  the  starch  is  changed 
into  dextrin,  the  amount  of  margaric  acid 
increases,  and  an  empyrematic  aromatic 
substance  is  formed." 

Baron  von  Liebig,  the  famous  chemist, 
says :  — 

"  It  is  a  perfect  food,  as  wholesome  as 
delicious,  a  beneficent  restorer  of  exhausted 
power ;  but  its  quality  must  be  good,  and 
it  must  be  carefully  prepared.  It  is  highly 
nourishing  and  easily  digested,  and  is  fitted 
to  repair  wasted  strength,  preserve  health, 
and  prolong  life.     It  agrees  with  dry  tern- 


VALUE    AS    FOOD.  71 

peraments  and  convalescents  ;  with  moth- 
ers who  nurse  their  children ;  with  those 
whose  occupations  oblige  them  to  undergo 
severe  mental  strains ;  with  public  speak- 
ers, and  with  all  those  who  give  to  work  a 
portion  of  the  time  needed  for  sleep.  It 
soothes  both  stomach  and  brain,  and  for 
this  reason,  as  well  as  for  others,  it  is  the 
best  friend  of  those  engaged  in  literary 
pursuits. " 

Francois  Joseph  Victor  Broussais,  a 
celebrated  physician  and  member  of  the 
French  Institute,  says  :  — 

"  Chocolate  of  good  quality,  well  made, 
properly  cooked,  is  one  of  the  best  aliments 
that  I  have  yet  found  for  my  patients  and 
for  myself.  This  delicious  food  calms  the 
fever,  nourishes  adequately  the  patient, 
and  tends  to  restore  him  to  health.  I 
would  even  add  that  I  attribute  many  cures 
of  chronic  dyspepsia  to  the  regular  use  of 
chocolate." 


72  COCOA    AND    CHOCOLATE. 

Christoph  Wilhelm  Hufeland,  the  dis- 
tinguished German  physician,  says  :  — 

"  I  recommend  good  chocolate  to  ner- 
vous, excitable  persons  ;  also  to  the  weak, 
debilitated,  and  infirm ;  to  children  and 
women.  I  have  obtained  excellent  results 
from  it  in  many  cases  of  chronic  diseases 
of  the  digestive  organs." 

Dr.  Karl  Ernest  Bock,  of  Leipsic, 
author  of  a"  Traite  de  Pathologie  et  de 
Diagnostic"  says  :  — 

"  The  nervousness  and  peevishness  of 
our  times  are  chiefly  attributable  to  tea 
and  coffee  ;  the  digestive  organs  of  con- 
firmed coffee-drinkers  are  in  a  state  of 
chronic  derangement,  which  reacts  upon 
the  brain,  producing  fretful  and  lachry- 
mose moods.  Cocoa  and  chocolate  are 
neutral  in  their  physical  effects,  and  are 
really  the  most  harmless  of  our  fashionable 
drinks." 


VALUE    AS    FOOD.  73 

Jean  Baptiste  Alphonse  Chevalier,  in 
his  treatise  on  chocolate,   says :  — 

"  Cocoa  and  chocolate  are  a  complete 
food  ;  coffee  and  tea  are  not  food.  Cocoa 
gives  one- third  its  weight  in  starch  and  one- 
half  in  cocoa-butter ;  and,  converted  into 
chocolate  by  the  addition  of  sugar,  it  real- 
izes the  idea  of  a  complete  aliment,  whole- 
some and  eminently  hygienic.  The  shells 
of  the  bean  contain  the  same  principles  as 
the  kernels,  and  the  extract,  obtained  by 
an  infusion  of  the  shells  in  sweetened  milk, 
forms  a  mixture  at  once  agreeable  to  the 
taste,  and  an  advantageous  substitute  for 
tea  and  coffee.'' 

Mme.  de  Sevigne,  in  one  of  her  letters  to 
her  daughter,  says  :  — 

"  I  took  chocolate  night  before  last  to 
digest  my  dinner,  in  order  to  have  a  good 
supper.  I  took  some  yesterday  for  nour- 
ishment, so  as  to  be  able  to  fast  until  night. 
What  I  consider  amusing  about  chocolate 


74  COCOA    AND    CHOCOLATE. 

is    that    it   acts   according    to  the  wishes 
of  the  one  who  takes  it." 

It  will  be  observed  that  Brillat-Savarin 
corroborates  this  statement  as  to  the  value 
of  chocolate  as  an  aid  to  digestion. 

"  The  cocoa-#»t,"  says  M.  Payen,  in 
u  Des  Substances  Alhnentaires"  "  has  in 
its  composition  more  azote  than  wheat 
flour,  about  twenty  times  as  much  fatty 
matter,  a  considerable  proportion  of  starch, 
and  an  agreeable  aroma  which  excites  the 
appetite.  We  are  entirely  disposed  to  admit 
that  this  substance  contains  a  remarkable 
nutritive  power.  Besides,  direct  experience 
has  proved  this  to  be  the  case.  In  fact, 
cocoa,  closely  combined  with  an  equal  or 
two-thirds  weight  of  sugar,  forming  the 
article  well-known  under  the  name  of 
chocolate,  constitutes  a  food,  substantial 
in  all  respects,  and  capable  of  sustaining 
the  strength  in  travelling." 

And,  a  little  farther  on,  he  adds  :  — 


VALUE    AS    FOOD.  75 

"  Cocoa  and  chocolate,  in  consequence 
of  their  elementary  composition,  and  of  the 
direct  or  indirect  addition  of  sugar  before 
their  consumption,  constitute  a  food,  res- 
piratory, or  capable  of  maintaining  animal 
heat,  by  means  of  the  starch,  sugar,  gum, 
and  fatty  matter  which  the,y  contain  ;  they 
are  also  articles  of  food  favorable  to  the 
maintenance  or  development  of  the  adipose 
secretions,  by  reason  of  the  fatty  matter 
(cocoa-butter)  belonging  to  them ;  and, 
finally,  they  assist  in  the  maintenance  and 
increase  of  the  tissues  by  means  of  their 
congeneric  azote  substances,  which  assimi- 
late therewith." 

Etienne  Francois  Geoffroy,  the  distin- 
guished French  physician  and  professor  of 
medicine  and  pharmacy  in  the  College  of 
France,  says,  in  his  "  Traite  de  Matiere 
Medicale  " :  — 

"The  drinking  of  chocolate,  especially 
of  that  made  with  milk,  is   recommended 


76  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

to  persons  affected  with  phthisis  or  con- 
sumption ;  and,  in  fact,  it  supplies  a  juice 
which  is  nourishing,  substantial,  and 
smooth,  which  deadens  the  acrimony  of  the 
humors;  provided,  as  we  have  said,  that  the 
cocoa  is  properly  roasted,  and  mixed  with 
a  very  small  quantity  of  spices." 

The  French  officer,  from  whose  work  on 
the"  Natural  History  of  Chocolate"  we  have 
already  quoted,  after  describing  the  differ- 
ent methods  of  raising  and  curing  the  fruit 
and  preparing  it  for  food  (which  it  is  not 
worth  while  to  reproduce  here,  as  the 
methods  have  essentially  changed  during 
the  last  fifty  years) ,  goes  on  to  demonstrate, 
as  the  result  of  actual  experiment,  that 
chocolate  is  a  substance  "  very  temperate, 
very  nourishing,  and  of  easy  digestion ; 
very  proper  to  repair  the  exhausted  spirits 
and  decayed  strength  ;  and  very  suitable  to 
preserve  the  health  and  prolong  the  lives 
of  old  men." 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  77 

" 1  could  produce  several  instances,"  he 
says,  "  in  favor  of  this  excellent  nourish- 
ment ;  but  I  shall  content  myself  with  two 
only,  equally  certain  and  decisive,  in  proof 
of  its  goodness.  The  first  is  an  experiment 
of  chocolate's  being  taken  for  the  only 
nourishment,  —  made  by  a  surgeon's  wife 
of  Martinico :  she  had  lost,  by  a  very 
deplorable  accident,  her  lower  jaw,  which 
reduced  her  to  such  a  condition  that  she 
did  not  know  how  to  subsist.  She  was 
not  capable  of  taking  anything  solid,  and 
not  rich  enough  to  live  upon  jellies  and 
nourishing  broths.  In  this  strait  she  de- 
termined to  take  three  dishes  of  chocolate, 
prepared  after  the  manner  of  the  countiy, 
one  in  the  morning,  one  at  noon,  and  one 
at  night.  There  chocolate  is  nothing  else 
but  cocoa  kernels  dissolved  in  hot  water, 
with  sugar,  and  seasoned  with  a  bit  of  cin- 
namon. This  new  way  of  life  succeeded  so 
well  that  she  has  lived  a  long  while  since, 
more  lively  and  robust  than  before  this 
accident. 


78  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

"  I  had  the  second  relation  from  a  gen- 
tleman of  Martinico,  and  one  of  my 
friends  not  capable  of  a  falsity. 

"  He  assured  me  that  in  his  neighborhood 
an  infant  of  four  months  old  unfortunately 
lost  his  nurse,  and  its  parents,  not  being 
able  to  put  it  to  another,  resolved,  through 
necessity  to  feed  it  with  chocolate.  The 
success  was  very  happy,  for  the  infant 
came  on  to  a  miracle,  and  was  neither  less 
healthy  nor  less  vigorous  than  those  who 
are  brought  up  by  the  best  nurses. 

"  Before  chocolate  was  known  in  Europe 
good  old  wine  was  called  the  milk  of  old 
men  ;  but  this  title  is  now  applied  with 
greater  reason  to  chocolate  ;  since  its  use 
has  become  so  common  that  it  has  been 
perceived  that  chocolate  is,  with  respect  to 
them,  what  milk  is  to  infants.  In  reality, 
if  one  examines  the  nature  of  chocolate  a 
little,  with  respect  to  the  constitution  of 
aged  persons,  it  seems  as  though  the  one 
was  made  on  purpose  to  remedy  the  de- 


VALUE    AS    FOOD.  7V 

fects  of  the  other,  and  that  it  is  truly  the 
panacea  of  old  age. 

"  Our  life,  as  a  famous  physician  observes, 
is,  as  it  were,  a  continual  growing  dry ; 
but  yet  this  kind  of  natural  consumption  is 
imperceptible  to  an  advanced  age,  when 
the  radical  moisture  is  consumed  more 
sensibly.  The  more  balmy  and  volatile 
parts  of  the  blood  are  dissipated  by  little 
and  little ;  the  salts,  disengaging  from  the 
sulphurs,  manifest  themselves ;  -  the  acid 
appears,  which  is  the  fruitful  source  of 
chronic  diseases.  The  ligaments,  the  ten- 
dons, and  the  cartilages  have  scarce  any  of 
the  unctuosity  left,  which  rendered  them 
so  supple  and  so  pliant  in  youth.  The 
skin  grows  wrinkled  as  well  within  as 
without ;  in  a  word,  all  the  solid  parts 
grow  dry  or  bony. 

"  One  may  say  that  nature  has  formed 
chocolate  with  every  virtue  proper  to 
remedy  these  inconveniences. 

M  The   volatile  sulphur    with   which    it 


80  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

abounds  is  proper  to  supply  the  place  of 
that  which  the  blood  loses  every  day 
through  age ;  it  blunts  and  sheathes  the 
points  of  the  salts,  and  restores  the  usual 
softness  to  the  blood,  like  as  spirit  of  wine, 
united  with  spirit  of  salt,  makes  a  soft 
liquor  of  a  violent  corrosive.  The  same 
sulphurous  unctuosity  at  the  same  time 
spreads  itself  in  the  solid  parts,  and  gives 
them,  in  some  sense,  their  natural  supple- 
ness. It  bestows  on  the  membranes,  the 
tendons,  the  ligaments  and  the  cartilages,  a 
kind  of  oil  which  renders  them  smooth  and 
flexible.  Thus  the  equilibrium  between 
the  fluids  and  solids  is,  in  some  measure, 
reestablished ;  the  wheels  and  springs 
of  our  machine  mended ;  health  is  pre- 
served and  life  prolonged.  These  are  not 
the  consequences  of  philosophical  reflec- 
tions, but  of  a  thousand  experiments  which 
mutually  confirm  each  other ;  among  a 
great  number  of  which  the  following  alone 
shall  suffice :  — 


VALUE   AS   FOOD.  81 

kt  There  lately  died  at  Martinico  a  coun- 
sellor, about  a  hundred  years  old,  who,  for 
thirty  years  past,  lived  on  nothing  but 
chocolate  and  biscuit.  He  sometimes,  in- 
deed, had  a  little  soup  at  dinner,  but  never 
any  fish,  flesh,  or  other  victuals.  He  was, 
nevertheless,  so  vigorous  and  nimble  that 
at  fourscore  and  five  he  could  get  on  horse- 
back without  stirrups. 

"  Chocolate  is  not  only  proper  to  pro- 
long the  life  of  aged  people,  but  also  of 
those  whose  constitution  is  lean  and  dry,  or 
weak  and  cacochymical,  or  who  use  violent 
exercises,  or  whose  employments  oblige 
them  to  an  intense  application  of  mind, 
which  makes  them  very  faintish.  To  all 
these  it  agrees  perfectly  well,  and  becomes 
to  them  an  altering  diet." 


82  COCOA    AND    CHOCOLATE. 


VL 


COCOA-BUTTER. 


"  A  S  the  oil  (or  butter)  of  cocoa  is  very 
ii  anodyne,  or  an  easer  of  pain,  it  is 
excellent,  taken  inwardly,  to  cure  hoarse- 
ness and  to  blunt  the  sharpness  of  the  salts 
that  irritate  the  lungs.  In  using  it  must  be 
melted  and  mixed  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  sugar  candy  and  made  into  lozenges, 
which  must  be  held  in  the  mouth  until 
the  substance  melts  quite  away,  so  that  it 
can  be  swallowed  gently.  Taken  season- 
ably the  oil  is  also  a  wonderful  antidote 
against  corrosive  poisons. 

"  It  is  the  best  and  most  natural  pomatum 
for  ladies  to  clear  and  plump  the  skin 
when  it  is  dry,  rough,  or  shrivelled,  with- 
out making  it  appear  either  fat  or  shining. 
The    Spanish  women   at   Mexico   use   it 


COCOA-BUTTER.  83 

very  much,  and  it  is  highly  esteemed  by 
them. 

M  The  leaving  off  the  practice  of  anoint- 
ing the  body  with  oil  can  be  attributed  to 
nothing  else  but  the  ill  smell  and  other  disa- 
greeable effects  that  attended  it ;  but  if  oil  of 
chocolate  was  used  instead  of  oil  of  olives 
those  inconveniences  would  be  avoided, 
because  it  has  no  smell  and  dries  entirely 
into  the  skin.  Nothing  certainly  would 
be  more  advantageous,  especially  for  aged 
persons,  than  to  renew  this  custom,  which 
has  been  authorized  by  the  experience  of 
antiquity. 

"  Apothecaries  ought  to  make  use  of  this, 
preferably  to  all  others,  as  the  basis  of  their 
balsams,  because  all  other  oils  grow  ran- 
cid, and  this  does  not. 

"There  is  nothing  so  proper  as  this  to 
keep  arms  from  rusting,  because  it  con- 
tains less  water  than  any  other  oil  made 
use  of  for  that  purpose. 

"  In  the  West  Indies  they  make  use  of 


84  COCOA   AND    CHOCOLATE. 

this  oil  to  cure  the  piles.  Others  use  it  to 
ease  gout  pains,  applying  it  hot  to  the 
part,  with  a  compress  dipped  in  it,  which 
they  cover  with  a  hot  napkin.  It  may  be 
used  after  the  same  manner  for  the  rheu- 
matism." 

M.  Arthur  Mangin  says  :  — 

"  When  pure  and  freshly  extracted 
cocoa-butter  is  of  a  pale  yellow  color  ;  its 
consistency  is  about  that  of  tallow.  Its 
odor  is  faint,  but  sweet,  and  its  taste  pleas- 
ant. When  thoroughly  purified,  and  pro- 
tected from  heat,  air,  and  dampness,  it  may 
be  preserved,  without  perceptible  altera- 
tion, for  several  years. 

"It  is  insoluble  in  water,  hardly  soluble 
in  alcohol,  completely  soluble  in  sulphuric 
ether  and  the  essential  oil  of  turpentine.  Its 
density  is  0.91 .  It  softens  perceptibly  at  240 
or  250  {Centigrade ;  i.e.,  56  or  57  Fah- 
renheit), but  melts  only  at  290,  and  be- 
comes entirely  liquid  only  at  350  to  400. 
It  cannot  boil  without  being  decomposed. 


COCOA-BUTTER.  85 

It  contains,  according  to  M.  Boussingault, 
carbon,  .766  ;  hydrogen,  .119  ;  oxygen,  .115. 
Cocoa-butter  formerly  played  a  tolerably 
important  part  in  medicine,  by  reason  of 
the  numerous  properties  attributed  to  it. 
It  was  called  a  pectoral,  an  expectorant,  a 
humective,  a  demulcent,  an  emollient,  a 
refrigerative,  etc.,  etc.  It  was  prescribed 
for  persons  suffering  from  or  suspected  of 
chest  diseases,  nervous  coughs,  bronchitis, 
etc.,  and  it  was  combined  with  kermes, 
ipecacuanha,  etc.,  to  make  pills,  emulsions, 
opiates,  and  other  remedies. 

"  At  present  it  is  no  longer  prescribed  for 
internal  use ;  but  pharmacists,  as  well  as 
perfumers,  make  it  the  basis  of  many  po- 
mades and  ointments,  whose  use  is,  we  are 
assured,  most  beneficial,  and,  at  all  events, 
most  agreeable.  Cocoa-butter,  pure  or 
simply  combined  with  an  oil  which  renders 
it  more  or  less  unctuous,  is  one  of  the 
smoothest,  most  fragrant,  and,  if  we  may 
be   allowed   the   expression,  most  savory, 


86  COCOA    AND    CHOCOLATE. 

pomades  which  can  be  used  for  the  hair  or 
skin,  and  it  is  astonishing  that  there  should 
be  preferred  to  it  so  many  equivocal  com- 
pounds whose  exorbitant  price  is  justified 
by  not  one  of  the  properties  claimed  for 
them  by  the  puffs  of  perfumers." 

"  This  concentrated  oil,"  says  M.  Del- 
cher,  "  is  the  best  and  most  natural  of  all 
the  pomades  which  ladies,  who  possess  a 
too  dry  skin  can  use  to  make  it  smooth, 
soft,  and  polished,  without  any  greasy  or 
shining  appearance,  which  is  produced  by 
most  of  the  pomades  advertised  for  the 
purpose. 

"  I  agree,"  continues  the  same  author, 
"  with  the  opinion  of  M.  Plisson,  who  ad- 
vises the  use  of  cocoa-butter  pomade  for 
women  who  suffer  from  acrid  eruptions, 
cracked  lips,  breast,  etc.  The  Spaniards 
of  Mexico  understand  the  value  of  these 
preparations ;  but,  as  in  France,  this  con- 
centrated oil  hardens  too  much,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  mix  it  with  the  oil  of  the  ben-nut, 


COCOA-BUTTER.  87 

or  of  sweet  almonds.  If  the  ancient  cus- 
tom of  the  Greeks  and  Romans  should  be 
revived,  of  anointing  one's  self  with  oil  to 
give  suppleness  to  the  limbs  and  to  guard 
against  rheumatism,  the  oil  of  cocoa  should 
be  chosen  for  the  purpose. 

M  Considered  as  food,  and  asa  medicinal 
substance,  cocoa-butter  possesses  the  same 
fundamental  property  as  other  fat.  It  sup- 
plies to  respiration  the  necessary  combus- 
tible elements,  and  renders  it,  in  conse- 
quence, more  easy  and  active.  It  ma}', 
therefore,  be  administered  with  advantage 
to  persons  suffering  from  affections  of  the 
chest,  and  possesses  the  advantage,  in  com- 
mon writh  only  a  very  small  number  of 
substances  of  the  same  kind,  that  the  most 
fastidious  and  obstinate  patient  may  take  it 
for  the  whole  of  his  life  without  disgust." 


RECEIPTS 


RECEIPTS. 


VII. 

DIFFERENT  METHODS  OF  PREPARING 
DRINKS. 

THERE  are  many  different  methods 
of  preparing  cocoa  and  chocolate  for 
drinking.  The  Mexicans  are  in  the  habit 
of  preparing  it  with  atole,  a  kind  of  pap 
made  of  maize,  which  is  their  most  ancient 
and  common  beverage,  and  which  they 
mix  hot,  in  equal  quantities  with  the  choco- 
late dissolved  in  hot  water,  and  drink  di- 
rectly.1    They  also    dissolve  the  chocolate 

1  "  I  remember,"  says  Prof.  Eaton,  "  some  that  was 
brought  home  from  Mexico  by  the  officers  of  Gen.  Zachary 
Taylor's  army.  The  cakes  were  of  half  a  pound  weight, 
or   so,  and  were    made  of  very  coarsely  pounded  cocoa. 


92  RECEIPTS. 

in  cold  water,  stirring  it  with  the  chocolate 
stick,  and  skim  off  the  froth  into  another 
vessel,  then  put  the  remaining  chocolate 
over  the  fire  with  sugar  enough  to  sweeten 
it,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils  pour  it  over  the 
froth,  and  drink  it. 

The  inhabitants  of  St.  Domingo  put 
chocolate  into  a  vessel  with  a  little  water, 
and  boil  it  till  it  is  dissolved  ;  then  add  the 
necessary  water  and  sugar,  let  it  boil  again 
till  an  unctuous  froth  is  formed,  and  drink 
it  in  this  state. 

The  Indians  of  New  Spain  make  use  of 

They  were  well  sweetened,  and  contained  a  large  proportion 
of  some  starchy  material.  For  a  drink  the  chocolate  is 
broken  into  small  pieces  and  placed  with  water  in  a  red 
earthen  pot,  an  upright  cylindrical  pot,  and  heated.  When 
the  chocolate  is  boiled  enough  it  is  stirred  violently  with  a 
sort  of  dasher,  much  like  that  of  an  old-fashioned  churn, 
except  that  the  handle  is  rolled  between  the  hands  rather 
than  worked  up  and  down.  The  chocolate  is  beaten  into  a 
foam,  which  the  old  travellers  declared  remained  so  stiff 
after  the  chocolate  was  cold  that  it  could  be  cut  up  and 
eaten  in  mouthfuls.  This  effect  must  have  been  due  to  the 
quantity  of  starch,  or,  most  likely,  fine  maize-meal,  in  the 
drink,  rather  than  to  any  special  skill  in  milling  it.'* 


RECEIPTS.  93 

cold  chocolate  in  their  festivals,  prepared 
by  milling  pure  chocolate  in  cold  water, 
skimming  off  the  froth  into  another  vessel, 
then  adding  sugar  to  the  remaining  liquid, 
and  pouring  it  from  a  great  height  on 
the  froth.  This  chocolate  is  exceedingly 
cold. 

Iced  chocolate  is  used  in  many  parts  of 
Italy,  where  it  is  the  custom  to  cool  almost 
all  beverages  upon  snow  or  ice. 

The  Spanish  method  of  making  choco- 
late is  to  mix  it  so  thick  that  a  spoon  can 
stand  upright  in  the  mixture ;  then  to 
drink  iced  water  after  it  by  way  of  dilut- 
ing it. 

Chocolate  is  usually  milled  in  a  tin  vessel, 
within  which  a  wheel,  somewhat  smaller 
in  circumference  than  the  vessel,  is  fixed 
to  a  stem  which  passes  through  the  lid, 
and,  being  turned  rapidly  between  the 
palms  of  the  hands,  bruises  and  mixes  the 
chocolate  with  the  water.  Chocolate  should 
be  first  milled  off  the  fire,  then  put  on  and 


94  RECEIPTS. 

left  to  simmer  for  some  time,  after  which 
it  is  milled  again  till  perfectly  smooth,  and 
free  from  sediment.  Any  ladle  or  stick 
which  effectually  mixes  the  chocolate  with 
the  water  may  be  substituted  for  the  mill- 
ing stick.  Chocolate  in  powder  does  not 
require  milling.  Chocolate  should  never 
be  made  until  wanted,  as  it  is  spoiled  by 
reheating.  Chocolate  may  be  made  in  an 
iron  pot  or  stewpan,  a  chocolate-pot,  or 
Chocolatiere.  —  The  Dessert  Book. 

Plain  Chocolate  (i). 
The  quantity  of  chocolate  for  a  certain 
quantity  of  milk  is  according  to  taste.  Two 
ounces  of  chocolate  make  a  good  cup  of  it, 
and  rather  thick.  Break  the  chocolate  in 
pieces,  put  it  in  a  tin  saucepan  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  water  to  an  ounce  of  chocolate, 
and  set  it  on  a  rather  slow  fire.  Stir  now 
and  then  till  thoroughly  melted.  While 
the  chocolate  is  melting  set  the  quantity 
of  milk  desired  in  another  tin  saucepan  on 


RECEIPTS.  95 

the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  rises,  and  when 
the  chocolate  is  melted  as  directed  above, 
turn  the  milk  into  the  chocolate  little  by 
little,  beating  well  at  the  same  time  with  an 
egg-beater.  Keep  beating  and  boiling  after 
being  mixed,  for  three  or  four  minutes  ;  take 
off  and  serve.  If  both  chocolate  and  milk 
are  good  it  will  be  frothy,  and  no  better  or 
more  nutritious  drink  can  be  had.  —  Pierre 
Blot. 

Plain  Chocolate  (2). 

Scrape  one  ounce  (one  of  the  small 
squares)  of  Baker's  or  any  plain  chocolate, 
fine ;  add  to  this  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  and  put  into  a  small  saucepan  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  hot  water  ;  stir  over  a 
hot  fire  for  a  minute  or  two,  until  it  is  per- 
fectly smooth  and  glossy ;  then  stir  it  all 
into  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  or  half  milk 
and  half  water  ;  mix  thoroughly  and  serve 
immediately.  If  the  chocolate  is  desired 
richer  take  twice  as  much  chocolate,  sugar, 
and  water.      Made  in  this  way  chocolate 


96  RECEIPTS. 

is  perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  oily  par- 
ticles. If  it  is  allowed  to  boil  after  the 
chocolate  is  added  to  the  milk  it  becomes 
oily  and  loses  its  fine  flavor.  — Maria  Par- 
loa. 

Frothed  Chocolate. 
One  cup  of  boiling  water  ;  three  pints  of 
fresh  milk  ;  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Baker's 
chocolate,  grated ;  five  eggs,  the  whites 
only  beaten  light ;  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  powdered  for  froth.  Sweeten  the 
chocolate  to  taste ;  heat  the  milk  to  scald- 
ing ;  wet  up  the  chocolate  with  the  boiling 
water,  and  when  the  milk  is  hot  stir  this 
into  it ;  simmer  gently  ten  minutes,  stirring 
frequently  ;  boil  up  briskly  once  ;  take  from 
the  fire,  sweeten  to  taste,  taking  care  not  to 
make  it  too  sweet,  and  stir  in  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  whipped  stiff,  without  sugar ; 
pour  into  the  chocolate-pot  or  pitcher, 
which  should  be  well  heated.  Have  ready 
in  a  cream-pitcher  the  remaining  whites, 
whipped  up  with  the  powdered  sugar ;  cover 


RECEIPTS.  97 

the  surface  of  each  cup  with  sweetened 
meringue  before  distributing  to  the  guests. 
Chocolate  or  cocoa  is  a  favorite  luncheon 
beverage,  and  many  ladies,  especially  those 
who  have  spent  much  time  abroad,  have 
adopted  the  French  habit  of  breakfast- 
ing upon  rolls  and  a  cup  of  chocolate.  — 
Marion  Harland. 

Milled  Chocolate. 

Three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
chocolate ;  one  quart  of  milk ;  wet  the 
chocolate  with  boiling  water,  scald  the 
milk,  and  stir  in  the  chocolate-paste ; 
simmer  ten  minutes  ;  then,  if  you  have  no 
regular  "  muller,"  put  your  syllabub-churn 
into  the  boiling  liquid  and  churn  steadily, 
without  taking  from  the  fire,  until  it  is  a 
yeasty  froth  ;  pour  into  a  chocolate-pitcher 
and  serve  at  once. 

This  is  esteemed  a  great  delicacy  by 
chocolate-lovers,  and  is  easily  made. — 
Marion  Harland. 


98  RECEIPTS. 

Baker's  Premium  No.  i  Chocolate. 

Scrape  £ne  about  one  square  of  a  cake, 
which  is  one  ounce ;  add  to  it  about  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar ;  put  these  into  a 
pint  of  perfectly  boiling  milk  and  water, 
of  each  one-half,  and  immediately  mill  or 
stir  them  well  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
until  the  sugar  and  chocolate  are  well  dis- 
solved. Some  think  ten  or  twelve  minutes' 
boiling  improves  it. 

Baker's  Vanilla  Chocolate. 

This  may  be  prepared  with  either  milk 
or  water,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  con- 
sumer. For  one  cup  of  chocolate  scrape 
fine  one  of  the  oblong  divisions  and  fully 
dissolve  it  in  a  very  little  boiling  water. 
Put  one  cup  of  milk  or  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  when  it  is  at  the  highest  boiling- 
point  add  the  chocolate.  Then  allow  it 
to  simmer  from  five  to  seven  minutes,  but 
not  to  boil. 


RECEIPTS.  99 

Baker's  Breakfast  Cocoa. 
Into  a  breakfast-cup  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
the  powder,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling 
water  and  mix  thoroughly  ;  then  add  equal 
parts  of  boiling  water  and  boiled  milk,  and 
susrar  to  the  taste.  Boiling  two  or  three 
minutes  will  improve  it. 

Baker's  Cocoa-Paste. 
Put  two  teaspoonfuls  of  paste  into  a  tea- 
cup ;  pour  upon  it  a  little  boiling  water, 
and  stir  it  until  it  is  dissolved ;  then  fill  the 
cup  with  boiling  water,  and  stir  again ; 
add  cream  or  milk,  if  agreeable.  Two  or 
three  minutes'  boiling  improves  it. 

Baker's  Eagle  French  Chocolate. 
Into  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  water  (of 
each  one-half,  or  other  proportions  if  more 
agreeable)  throw  two  oblong  divisions  of 
the  chocolate  cake,  previously  cut  fine ; 
then  boil  it  from  five  to  seven  minutes 
longer,  stirring  it  frequently. 


100  RECEIPTS. 

German  Sweet  Chocolate. 
Into  one  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  water 
(of  each  one-half)  throw  two  squares  of 
chocolate  scraped  fine  ;  then  boil  it  five  min- 
utes longer  or  more,  stirring  frequently. 

Baker's  Racahout  des  Arabes. 
Dissolve  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Racahout 
in  a  little  cold  milk.  Heat  gradually  a 
quart  of  milk  to  boiling ;  add  the  above 
and  let  it  boil  (stirring  meanwhile)  until  it 
begins  to  thicken.  To  enrich  for  dessert, 
add  two  eggs  to  the  mixture  before  putting 
it  into  the  boiling  milk.  Strain  the  whole 
when  cooked. 

Baker's  Broma. 
Dissolve  a  large  tablespoonful  of  broma 
in  as  much  warm  water ;  then  pour  upon 
it  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  water,  in 
equal  proportions,  and  boil  it  two  minutes 
longer,  stirring  it  frequently ;  add  sugar  at 
pleasure. 


RECEIPTS.  101 

Baker's  Cocoa  Shells. 
Take  a  small  quantity  of  cocoa  shells 
(say  two  ounces),  pour  upon  them  three 
pints  of  boiling  water ;  boil  rapidly  thirty 
or  forty  minutes ;  allow  it  to  settle  or 
strain,  and  add  cream  or  boiled  milk  and 
sugar  at  pleasure. 

Baker's  Prepared  Cocoa. 
To  one  pint  of  milk  and  one  pint  of  cold 
water  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cocoa ; 
boil  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Any  other 
proportions  of  milk  and  water  make  a 
pleasant  beverage. 

Baker's  Premium  Cracked  Cocoa. 
Use  the  same  quantity  as  of  coffee. 
Cocoa  in  this  form  needs  thorough  and 
continued  boiling  to  extract  its  full  strength. 
By  adding  a  small  quantity  of  cocoa  daily 
the  consumer  will  have  a  highly  flavored 
cup  of  cocoa  at  a  trifling  expense. 


102  RECEIPTS. 

French  Chocolat  au  lait  (Chocolate  with  milk). 
Place  the  chocolate,  cut  into  small 
pieces,  in  a  saucepan  over  a  slow  fire,  in 
order  that  the  chocolate  may  dissolve 
gradually  and  not  adhere  to  the  pan. 
When  the  chocolate  is  completely  melted 
pour  boiling  milk  upon  it  in  small  quan- 
tities, and  stir  rapidly.  After  adding  the 
requisite  quantity  of  milk  let  the  mixture 
come  to  the  boiling-point  for  an  instant, 
and  you  will  have  a  light  and  most  agree- 
able chocolate. 

Chocolat  a  l'eau  (Chocolate  with  water). 
Follow  the  directions  given  above,  using 
water  instead  of  milk.  When  the  full  al- 
lowance of  water  has  been  added  to  the 
chocolate  the  mixture  should  boil  for  ten 
minutes,  and  be  stirred  continually. 

Spanish  Chocolate. 
For   one    cup    of  chocolate  scrape   fine 
two  oblong  divisions,  and  fully  dissolve  it 


RECEIPTS. 

in  a  very  little  boiling  water, 
cup  of  milk  or  water  in  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  is  at  the  highest  boiling-point  add 
the  chocolate.  Allow  it  to  simmer  for 
five  or  ten  minutes,  but  not  to  boil,  stirring 
all  the  time. 

The  Spanish  method  of  making  choco- 
late is  to  mix  it  so  thick  that  a  spoon  can 
stand  upright  in  the  mixture. 

Egg  Chocolate. 

Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  boiling  water ; 
beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  to  foam  in  a  bowl, 
and  pour  the  chocolate  slowly  over  it,  stir- 
ring constantly  all  the  time. 

Chocolate,  one  cake ;  water,  one  cup ; 
yolk  of  one  egg. 

German  Egg  Chocolate. 
Put  four  ounces  of  fine  chocolate,  dis- 
solved in  a  little  hot  water,  into  a  perfectly 
clean  stewpan  with  three    large  cups  of 
water  and  one  ounce  of  powdered  sugar, 


104  RECEIPTS. 

and  set  it  over  the  fire.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  to  foam  in  a  cup  of  water,  and 
stir  them,  with  fifteen  drops  of  rose-water 
and  the  same  quantity  of  orange-flower- 
water,  into  the  chocolate  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  simmer.  Let  it  stand  a  few 
moments  longer  over  the  fire  without  boil- 
ing, stirring  it  all  the  time ;  then  take  it 
off  and  serve  it  with  biscuit  or  marchpau. 
Chocolate,  four  ounces ;  water,  three 
cups ;  sugar,  one  ounce ;  yolks  of  five 
eggs ;  rose-water,  fifteen  drops ;  orange- 
water,  fifteen  drops.     Boil  up  once. 

Parisian  Egg  Chocolate. 
For  three  cups  of  chocolate  dissolve 
three  ounces  of  the  best  chocolate  in  four 
cups  of  water,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  ;  beat 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  foam,  and  stir 
them  into  the  chocolate  as  soon  as  it  begins 
to  froth  ;  skim  off  the  froth  into  warm 
chocolate-cups  until  they  are  heaped  full, 
then  hold  a  shovelful  of  burning  coals  to 


RECEIPTS.  105 

each  till  the  froth  is  converted  to  a  light 
crust,  when  serve. 

The  chocolate  froths  better  when  finely 
powdered  sugar  is  mixed  with  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  and  still  better  when  froth-cakes 
are  added,  prepared  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  — 

Beat  the  whites  of  a  dozen  eggs  to  froth, 
and  stir  in  powdered  sugar  till  the  mass  is 
of  the  consistency  of  a  stiff  paste.  Mould 
the  paste  on  a  large  plate  into  small  cakes, 
about  the  size  and  shape  of  an  ordinary- 
sized  hazel-nut,  and  dry  them  in  the  sun 
or  in  a  warm  room. 

As  soon  as  the  egg-yolks  have  been 
stirred  into  the  chocolate  add  as  many  of 
these  cakes  as  there  are  cups  of  the  liquid, 
and  continue  to  stir  it  until  the  whole  mass 
becomes  froth.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
keep  the  chocolate  near  the  boiling-point, 
whether  on  or  ofF  the  fire,  without  letting: 
it  boil  over. 

Chocolate,   three    ounces ;    water,   four 


106  RECEIPTS. 

cups  ;  yolks  of  eggs,  two.     Boil,  and  mill 

to  froth. 

Wine  Chocolate. 

Set  half  a  bottle  of  good  white  wine, 
three  ounces  of  chocolate,  and  one  ounce 
of  powdered  sugar  over  the  fire  ;  beat  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  to  foam,  with  a  little 
wine,  and  add  it  to  the  chocolate  as  soon 
as  it  begins  to  simmer;  stir  it  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  take  it  from  the  fire  and 
serve.  This  is  an  excellent  winter  bever- 
age. —  Dessert  Book. 

Chocolate  Wine. 
Infuse  in  a  bottle  of  Madeira,  Marsala  or 
raisin  wine  four  ounces  of  chocolate,  and 
sugar  if  required.  In  three  or  four  days 
strain  and  bottle.  —  Confectioner's  Jour- 
nal. 


PUDDINGS. 

Chocolate  Pudding  (i). 
Half  a  cake  of  chocolate  grated  (Baker's, 
two   cakes   in   one   package)  ;    vanilla   to 


RECEIPTS.  107 

flavor;  small  half  pint  of  soda-cracker 
crumbs ;  butter  size  of  an  egg ;  one-half 
pint  of  boiled  milk ;  whites  of  six  eggs ; 
one-half  cup  of  sugar  ;  salt ;  boil  in  a  mould 
for  one  hour.     To  be  eaten  hot. 

SAUCE. 

Yolks  of  six  eggs  ;  one  tumbler  of  sherry- 
wine  ;  one-half  large  cup  of  sugar ;  beat 
the  yolks  very  light ;  put  the  sugar  in  the 
sherry,  then  heat  the  wine  ;  when  it  is  very 
hot  add  the  beaten  yolks  ;  stir  quickly  one 
way  until  it  thickens  to  a  very  rich  cream. 
To  be  eaten  cold.  —  Choice  Receipts, 

Chocolate  Pudding  (2). 

For  six  persons  use  one  quart  of  milk, 
one  pint  of  stale  bread,  four  eggs,  one 
ounce  of  grated  chocolate,  half  a  cupful  of 
granulated  sugar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract,  and  one  teaspoonfu  1  of  salt. 

Soak  the  bread  and   milk   together  for 


108  RECEIPTS. 

two  hours ;  then  mash  the  bread  fine  by- 
pressing  it  with  a  spoon  against  the  side 
of  the  bowl.  Put  the  chocolate,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  granulated  sugar  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water  in  a 
small  stewpan,  and  stir  over  a  hot  fire 
until  the  liquid  becomes  smooth  and  glossy  ; 
now  take  from  the  fire  and  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  bread  and  milk.  Stir  until 
the  mixture  is  thin  and  smooth ;  then  add 
it  to  the  bread  and  milk. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  one  white  of  the  egg 
with  the  remainder  of  the  granulated  sugar ; 
add  this  mixture  and  the  salt  to  the  bread 
and  milk ;  pour  into  a  pudding-dish  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  forty  minutes. 

Now  beat  the  three  remaining  whites  to 
a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and,  with  a  spoon,  beat 
into  them  three  tablespoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  the  vanilla.  Spread  this 
meringue  over  the  pudding  and  cook  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  longer  with  the  oven 
door  open.     Serve  with  whipped  cream. 


RECEIPTS.  109 

When  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  cream 
the  meringue  will  suffice  as  a  sauce.  If  a 
strong  flavor  of  chocolate  be  liked  use 
two  ounces  instead  of  one.  —  Maria  Par- 
loa. 

Chocolate  Pudding  (3). 

One  pint  of  rich  milk  ;  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  corn-starch  ;  one  scant  half  cup  of 
sugar ;  whites  of  four  eggs ;  a  little  salt ; 
flavoring ;  beat  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ; 
dissolve  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  of  the 
milk  ;  stir  the  sugar  into  the  remainder  of 
the  milk,  which  place  on  the  fire ;  when 
it  begins  to  boil  add  the  dissolved  corn- 
starch ;  stir  constantly  for  a  few  minutes, 
when  it  will  become  a  smootli  paste  ;  now 
stir  in  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  and 
let  it  remain  a  little  longer  to  cook  the 
eggs  ;  flavor  the  whole  with  vanilla  ;  now 
take  out  a  third  of  the  pudding,  flavor  the 
remainder  in  the  kettle  with  a  bar  of  choco- 
late, softened,  mashed,  and  dissolved  with 


110  RECEIPTS. 

a  little  milk ;  put  half  the  chocolate  pud- 
ding in  the  bottom  of  a  mould  (which  has 
been  wet  with  water)  ;  smooth  the  top ; 
next  make  a  layer  with  the  white  pudding 
(the  third  taken  out)  ;  smooth  it  also ; 
next  the  remainder  of  the  chocolate  pud- 
ding. 

Serve  with  whipped  cream,  or  a  boiled 
custard,  made  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
and  flavored  with  vanilla.  —  Mrs.  Mary 
F.  Henderson. 

Chocolate  Pudding  (4). 
One  quart  milk ;  three  ounces  grated 
vanilla  chocolate  ;  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
corn  starch  ;  two  eggs  ;  half  a  cup  pulver- 
ized sugar :  boil  the  milk  ;  stir  in  the 
chocolate,  starch,  sugar,  and  beaten  yolks 
of  the  eggs ;  bake ;  when  the  pudding  is 
cold  beat  the  whites  of  the  two  eggs  to  a 
froth ;  stir  in  half  a  cup  of  pulverized 
sugar ;  place  this  frosting  on  the  pudding 
and  serve.  —  Choice  Receipts. 


RECEIPTS.  Ill 

Chocolate  Mixture. 
Five  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate 
with  enough  cream  or  milk  to  wet  it,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  egg  well  beaten. 
Stir  the  ingredients  over  the  fire  until 
thoroughly  mixed ;  then  flavor  with  va- 
nilla. —  Mrs.  Mary  F.  Henderson, 


CAKE,  ETC. 
Chocolate  Cake  (i). 
Two  cups  of  sugar ;  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  rubbed  in  with  the  sugar ;  four 
eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately ; 
one  cup  of  sweet  milk ;  three  heaping 
cups  of  flour ;  one  teaspoonful  of  cream 
tartar,  sifted  into  flour;  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda  melted  in  hot  water ;  bake  in 
jelly-cake  tins. 

FILLING. 

Whites  of  two  eggs,  beaten  to  a  froth  ; 
one  cup  of  powdered  sugar ;  one-quarter 


112  RECEIPTS. 

pound  of  grated  chocolate,  wet  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  cream  ;  one  teaspoonful 
vanilla ;  beat  the  sugar  into  the  whipped 
whites,  then  the  chocolate ;  whisk  all  to- 
gether hard  for  three  minutes  before  add- 
ing the  vanilla  ;  let  the  cake  get  quite  cold 
before  you  spread  it ;  reserve  a  little  of  the 
mixture  for  the  top,  and  beat  more  sugar 
into  this  to  form  a  firm  icing.  — Marion 
Harland. 

Chocolate  Cake  (2). 

Beat  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  sugar 
and  ten  ounces  of  butter  to  a  cream  ;  whisk 
the  whites  and  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  sepa- 
rately, after  which  mix  and  beat  them 
together,  and  add  them  gradually  to  the 
sugar  and  butter ;  now  add  and  stir  in  six 
ounces  of  cocoa-paste  or  chocolate  grated 
and  melted  in  just  sufficient  boiling  water 
to  form  a  thickish  paste  ;  next  add  and  stir 
in  one  pint  of  milk,  then  add  one  and  three- 
quarter  pounds  of  flour  that  has  been  thor- 


RECEIPTS.  113 

oughly  sifted  together  with  one  and  a  half 
ounces  of  Royal  baking  powder ;  beat  all 
lightly  and  quickly  to  a  smooth  mass  and 
bake  in  buttered  cake-pans  in  a  quick  oven  ; 
or  it  may  be  baked  in  layers  in  jelly-cake 
pans,  and  filled  with  the  following  cream  : 
Take  six  ounces  of  sugar,  two  whole  eggs, 
and  the  yolks  of  three  more,  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate,  one 
tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  and  one  pint 
of  milk  ;  beat  the  sugar,  the  two  eggs,  and 
the  grated  chocolate  to  a  cream  ;  beat  the 
three  yolks  and  the  corn-starch  together, 
and  then  add  them  to  the  chocolate  mixture 
and  work  all  together  till  smooth,  then 
stir  in  the  milk  and  cook  to  a  custard ; 
when  cold  spread  a  layer  of  it  over  a  sheet 
of  the  cake,  on  top  of  which  lay  another 
sheet  of  the  cake,  which  spread  in  like 
manner  with  custard,  on  top  of  which  place 
a  third  sheet  of  the  cake,  over  which  sift 
finely  powdered  sugar.  —  Confectio?zer*s 
Journal. 


114  RECEIPTS. 

Chocolate  Cake  (3). 

One  very  full  cup  of  butter ;  two  cups  of 
sugar ;  three  and  a  half  cups  of  flour  ;  one 
cup,  not  quite  full,  of  milk ;  five  eggs ;  one 
teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar ;  half  teaspoon- 
ful  soda.  —  Icing:  Whites  of  two  eggs; 
one  and  a  half  cups  of  pulverized  sugar ; 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  essence  of  vanilla  ;  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  vanilla  (Baker's) 
chocolate  ;  beat  the  yolks  of  the  five  and 
the  whites  of  the  three  eggs  separately, 
until  they  are  as  light  as  they  can  be  made  ; 
put  the  cream  of  tartar  in  the  flour ;  dis- 
solve the  soda  in  a  little  of  the  milk  ;  rub 
the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream  ;  add  the 
eggs,  milk,  flour,  and  soda ;  pour  the  mixt- 
ure into  a  large,  shallow  pan,  well  but- 
tered, and  put  it  in  the  oven.  While  it  is 
baking  make  the  icing  by  beating  the 
whites  of  the  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
stir  the  sugar  in  well ;  add  the  grated 
chocolate  and  the  essence  of  vanilla  ;  when 


RECEIPTS.  115 

the  cake  is  done  turn  it  out  on  a  sieve ; 
while  hot  put  on  the  icing.  —  Choice  Re- 
ceipts, 

Chocolate  Cake  (4). 

One  cup  of  butter ;  two  cups  of  sugar ; 
three  cups  of  flour ;  half  cup  sweet  milk ; 
half  teaspoonful  soda ;  one  teaspoonful  of 
cream  tartar  ;  seven  eggs.  —  Chocolate 
Cream:  Quarter  of  a  pound  of  Baker's 
best  vanilla  chocolate ;  one  gill  of  sweet 
milk  ;  one  egg ;  sugar  to  taste.  Rub  butter 
and  sugar  together ;  beat  the  seven  eggs 
until  they  are  very  light ;  put  the  cream  of 
tartar  in  the  flour  and  the  soda  in  the  milk  ; 
mix  all  well,  and  bake  in  four  Washington- 
pie  plates.  While  this  is  baking  scald  the 
gill  of  milk  and  the  chocolate  together; 
beat  one  egg  thoroughly  and  stir  it  in ;  add 
sugar  to  taste.  When  the  cake  is  done 
spread  the  chocolate  cream  between  the 
layers  and  upon  the  tops  of  the  cakes.  — 
Choice  Receipts* 


116  RECEIPTS. 

Chocolate  Cake  (5). 
One  cupful  of  butter ;  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar ;  three  cupfuls  of  flour ;  one  cupful 
of  milk ;  four  eggs  well  beaten ;  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  ;  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream 
of  tartar.  Bake  in  Washington-pie  plates. 
Put  a  layer  of  the  chocolate  mixture  between 
and  on  the  top  and  sides  of  the  cake. 

Chocolate  Cake  (6). 
One  cup  of  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of 
flour,  four  eggs,  and  a  cup  three-quarters 
full  of  grated  chocolate.  Stir  the  butter 
and  sugar  to  a  cream  ;  add  the  beaten  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  beat  well,  then  the  whites 
beaten  to  a  stifF  froth  alternately  with  the 
flour  ;  beat  very  hard  ;  stir  in  the  chocolate 
and  bake  in  one  large  cake  or  in  square  tin 
pans.  —  Sara  T.  Paul. 

Chocolate  Cakes  (1). 
The  whites  of  eight  eggs  ;  half  a  cake  of 
chocolate,  grated  ;  one  pound  of  sugar  ;  six 


RECEIPTS.  117 

ounces  of  flour ;  beat  the  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  the  sugar,  then  stir  in  the  choco- 
late and  flour.  Butter  flat  tins,  and  drop 
on  the  mixture,  not  too  closely,  as  the  cakes 
will  spread.  Bake  a  few  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven.  —  Sara  T.  Paul. 

Chocolate  Cakes  (2). 
Put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  bowl, 
with  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar ;  beat 
them  well  until  slightly  consistent,  and  add 
to  them  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  flour,  an 
ounce  of  corn-starch,  a  few  drops  of  extract 
of  vanilla,  and  mix  all  well  together.  Beat 
up  the  whites  of  your  eggs  very  stiff,  and 
stir  them  lightly  with  your  other  ingre- 
dients. Put  it  in  a  cornucopia  made  of 
stiff  paper,  with  a  hole  in  the  end,  through 
which  press  it  on  a  pan  (on  which  you 
have  spread  a  sheet  of  white  paper),  and 
form  it  into  small  rounds  about  the  size  of 
a  fifty-cent  piece.  Send  them  to  a  gentle 
oven  until   they  are  quite  firm  ;  then   let 


118  RECEIPTS. 

them  become  cold,  and  cut  them  all  the 
same  size  with  a  small,  round  cutter. 
Spread  a  layer  of  peach  or  other  marma- 
lade on  the  half  of  your  cakes,  which  cover 
with  the  other  half.  Melt  about  two  ounces 
of  chocolate  in  about  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  water.  Put  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  with  half  a  glass 
of  water;  boil  for  about  eight  to  ten 
minutes ;  lift  out  some  of  the  sugar  with 
a  spoon,  drop  it  into  cold  water ;  place  it 
between  the  thumb  and  third  finger,  and, 
if  you  may  draw  the  sugar  out  into  a  long 
fine  thread,  without  breaking,  you  have 
reached  the  desired  result ;  then  put  your 
chocolate  in  a  bowl,  add  your  sugar,  stir- 
ring until  beginning  to  thicken.  Take  as 
many  little  wooden  skewers  as  you  have 
cakes,  sharpen  them  to  a  fine  point,  stick 
one  into  each  cake,  which  dip  into  your 
chocolate  and  sugar,  covering  it  entirely. 
Put  a  colander  upside-down  on  a  table,  and 
in  the  holes  place  the  ends  of  your  sticks, 


RECEIPTS.  119 

thereby  allowing  the  cakes  on  the  opposite 
end  to  dry  ;  after  which  remove  your  cakes 
from  the  sticks,  and  serve  when  needed.  — 
Pierre  Car  on. 

Chocolate  Macaroons. 
Melt  on  a  slow  fire  and  in  a  tin  pan  three 
ounces  of  chocolate  without  sugar  (known 
as  Baker's  chocolate)  ;  then  work  it  to  a 
thick  paste  with  one  pound  of  pulverized 
sugar  and  three  whites  of  eggs.  Roll  the 
mixture  down  to  the  thickness  of  about  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch ;  cut  it  in  small  round 
pieces  with  a  paste-cutter,  either  plain  or 
scalloped ;  butter  a  pan  slightly  and  dust 
it  with  flour  and  sugar,  half  of  each  ;  place 
the  pieces  of  paste  or  mixture  in  and  bake 
in  a  hot,  but  not  quick  oven.  Serve  cold. 
—  Pierre  Blot, 

Chocolate  Tartlets. 
Four  eggs,  half  cake  of  Baker's  chocolate, 
grated  ;  one  tablespoonful  corn-starch,  dis- 


120  RECEIPTS. 

solved  in'  milk;  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
milk  ;  four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar  ; 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  ;  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon  and  a  little  salt ;  one 
heaping  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Rub  the  chocolate  smooth  in  the  milk ; 
heat  over  the  fire,  and  add  the  corn-starch 
wet  in  more  milk.  Stir  until  thickened 
and  pour  out.  When  cold  beat  in  the 
yolks  and  sugar  with  the  flavoring.  Bake 
in  open  shells  lining  flate-pans.  Cover 
with  a  meringue  made  of  the  whites  and  a 
little  powdered  sugar,  when  they  are  nearly 
done,  and  let  them  color  slightly.  Eat 
cold. — Marion  Harland. 

Chocolate  Filling  for  Cake. 
Half  a  cake  of  sweet  chocolate  grated, 
half  a  cup  of  sweet  milk,  the  same  of 
powdered  sugar,  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  extract  of  vanilla.  Stir  the 
chocolate  in  the  milk,  add  the  eggs,  sugar, 
and  vanilla ;  set  it  in  a  vessel  of  boiling 


RECEIPTS.  121 

water  and  stir  until  a  stiff  jelly.  When 
cold  spread  it  between  the  layers  of  cake. 
Used  also  as  a  frosting  for  cake.  —  Sara 
T.  Paul. 

Chocolate  Wafers. 

Melt  two  pounds  of  cocoa-paste  in  a 
warm  iron  mortar,  and  add  to  it  one  pound 
of  the  finest  powdered  sugar,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fine  vanilla  sugar ;  pound 
these  together  with  a  warm  pestle  until 
the  cocoa  and  sugar  are  perfectly  amalga- 
mated ;  if  it  should  be  too  stiff  add  a  little 
melted  cocoa-butter  or  sweet  oil  to  it  and 
mix  well  in.  Take  a  small  bit  of  the  paste 
in  the  hand  and  roll  it  into  a  small  ball ; 
place  these  as  formed,  out  of  hand,  upon 
small  sheets  of  glazed  paper,  in  rows  about 
an  inch  apart.  When  you  have  placed  a 
dozen  or  two  on  a  sheet  take  it  by  the  ends 
and  lift  it  up  and  down  a  few  times,  letting 
it  touch  the  table  each  time ;  this  motion 
will  flatten  the  balls  into  wafers.     When 


122  RECEIPTS. 

cold  and  concreted  they  may  be  easily  re- 
moved from  the  papers.  There  are  various 
tools  for  dropping  these  wafers  to  be  ob- 
tained at  almost  any  of  the  confectionery 
supply-depots.  —  Confectioner's  Journal. 

Chocolate  Jumbles. 

Take  one  pound  of  pulverized  sugar, 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of 
chocolate,  finely  grated,  eight  eggs,  a 
tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  flour 
sufficient.  Beat  the  eggs  and  butter  to  a 
cream  ;  add  and  beat  in  the  eggs,  then  the 
grated  chocolate  and  vanilla ;  then  work 
in  flour  till  you  have  a  dough  stiff  enough 
to  roll  out.  Dust  the  table  with  powdered 
sugar,  roll  the  dough  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  four  inches 
long,  and  form  them  into  rings  by  joining 
the  ends.  Lay  them  at  a  little  distance 
apart  on  buttered  baking  sheets  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven.  —  Confectioner's  Jour- 
nal. 


RECEIPTS.  123 

Chocolate  Eclairs  (i). 
Put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on 
the  fire,  with  about  six  tablespoonfuls  of 
water.  When  beginning  to  boil  add  about 
two  and  a  half  ounces  of  flour,  stirring  with 
a  wooden  spoon  about  five  minutes  ;  then 
remove  from  the  fire  and  add,  one  by  one, 
four  eggs,  stirring  rapidly  until  each  is 
well  mixed ;  then  put  your  mixture  in  a 
cornucopia  of  stiff  paper,  with  a  hole  in 
the  point,  through  which  press  it  on  a  pan, 
forming  little  shapes  similar  to  lady-fin- 
gers. Send  them  to  a  gentle  oven  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  firm  ;  let  them  be- 
come cold  ;  then  make  an  incision  in  them 
the  length  of  each  through  the  middle.  Put 
in  a  saucepan  two  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  corn-starch,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  a  glass 
of  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  stir  all 
together  on  the  fire.  Just  before  beginning 
to  boil  remove  from  the  fire  and  let  it  become 
cold  ;  then  fill  the  inside  of  your  eclairs  with 
your  cream.     Melt  an  ounce  of  chocolate 


124  RECEIPTS. 

in  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  boil  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  as  the  foregoing,  mix  thor- 
oughly with  your  chocolate,  with  which 
cover  your  eclairs,  —  Pierre  Caron. 

Chocolate  Eclairs  (2). 
Prepare  a  batter  as  for  Boston  cream 
puffs,  as  follows :  Take  one  pound  of  flour, 
one  ounce  of  sugar,  one  quart  of  cold 
water,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  sixteen 
eggs ;  put  the  water  and  butter  into  a 
bright  and  clean  round-bottomed  sauce- 
pan ;  place  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the 
water  commences  to  boil  remove  it  from 
the  fire,  and  immediately  add  and  rapidly 
stir  in  the  flour  and  sugar.  As  soon  as 
these  are  well  mixed  and  smooth  add  and 
stir  in  the  eggs,  two  or  three  at  a  time,  till 
all  are  thoroughly  incorporated ;  fill  a 
biscuit  forcer  or  a  meringue  bag  with  the 
batter,  and  press  it  out  upon  buttered  bak- 
ing-tins, in  the  same  manner  that  you  would 
lady-fingers,  making  cakes  of  it  about  five 


RECEIPTS.  125 

inches  long  and  about  an  inch  in  diameter. 
Lay  out  these  cakes  at  about  two  inches 
apart  on  the  tins,  as  they  swell  considera- 
bly in  baking  ;  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  When 
baked  and  cold  make  an  opening  on  one 
side  of  each  cake  and  fill  them  with  a  soft- 
ish  custard,  made  as  follows:  Take  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
two  ounces  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  four  or  five 
eggs,  and  one  and  a  quarter  pints  of  milk, 
and  a  dessertspoonful  of  vanilla  extract; 
put  the  sugar,  flour,  and  yolks  into  a 
saucepan,  stir  them  well  together,  then 
slowly  add  and  stir  in  the  milk  and  flavor ; 
set  it  upon  the  fire  and  stir  constantly  till 
it  thickens  to  a  smooth  custard.  Before 
filling  the  cakes  the  tops  should  be  dipped 
and  covered  with  chocolate  icing,  made  as 
follows  :  Melt  one  or  more  ounces  of  choc- 
olate with  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  add  to  it,  when  melted,  three 
ounces  of  fine  sugar  ;  stir  and  boil  for  three 
or  four  minutes,  then  remove  it  from  the 


126  RECEIPTS. 

fire,  and  dip  and  cover  the  top  of  each 
cake  with  this  chocolate  icing,  or  they  may 
be  dipped  in  melted  chocolate  fondant. 
—  Confectioner's  yournaL 

Chocolate  Eclairs  (3). 
Prepare  some  batter  as  for  cream  puffs, 
fill  a  mering-uehzg  with  it,  and  press  it 
out  upon  a  well-buttered  baking-tin  in 
cakes  about  an  inch  wide  and  five  inches 
long.  Let  there  be  two  inches  between 
each  cake ;  bake  in  a  quick  oven  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes.  When  cold  slit  one 
side,  open  carefully  and  fill  with  the  cream 
given  above,  and  ice  the  top  of  each  cake 
with  chocolate  prepared  as  follows :  Melt 
two  ounces  of  chocolate  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  water  ;  add  four  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar ;  stir  to  a  paste  thick  enough  to 
spread  without  running,  and  coat  the  top 
of  each  cake  with  it,  or  dip  the  tops  of  the 
cakes  into  it ;  either  way  will  do.  —  Con- 
fectioner's Journal. 


RECEIPTS.  127 


CREAM,    PIES,   ETC. 

Chocolate   Cream   Puffs. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar ;  mix  these  together. 
Put  a  pint  of  cold  water  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  into  a  very  clean  sauce- 
pan, set  it  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it 
boils  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  throw  in 
the  flour ;  stir  it  very  rapidly  until  well 
mixed  and  smooth  ;  continue  to  beat  and 
stir  for  a  minute  or  two  longer.  Now  let 
it  rest  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  then 
stir  and  beat  in  with  a  wooden  spatula 
eight  eggs,  two  at  a  time,  till  all  are  used  ; 
the  first  require  some  little  time  to  mix,  on 
account  of  the  stiffness  of  the  paste.  When 
all  are  thoroughly  incorporated  lay  out 
the  paste  by  tablespoonfuls  on  buttered 
tins,  and  about  two  inches  apart  each 
way,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes.     When  cold  cut  open 


128  RECEIPTS. 

one  side  of  the  puff  and  fill  it  with  the  fol- 
lowing cream  or  custard  :  — 

Rub  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  four  eggs 
to  a  cream  ;  mix  two  ounces  of  flour  in 
gradually  while  stirring  well.  Mix  and 
stir  one  ounce  of  grated  chocolate  into  one 
quart  of  boiling-hot  milk  and  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  pure  extract  of  vanilla.  Pour 
this  into  the  egg  mixture,  set  it  on  the  fire 
and  stir  constantly  till  it  thickens,  then 
take  it  off  and  let  it  cool.  —  Confectioner' 's 
Journal. 

Chocolate  Blanc-Mange  (i). 
One  quart  of  milk  ;  one-half  package  of 
gelatine,  dissolved  in  one  cup  of  cold  water ; 
one  cup  of  sugar ;  three  great  spoonfuls 
grated  chocolate ;  vanilla  to  taste.  Heat 
the  milk,  stir  in  the  sugar  and  soaked  gela- 
tine ;  strain ;  add  chocolate,  boil  ten  min- 
utes, stirring  all  the  time.  When  nearly 
cold  beat  for  five  minutes  or  until  it  begins 
to  stiffen.     Flavor,  whip  up  once,  and  put 


RECEIPTS.  129 

into  a  wet  mould.     It  will  be  firm  in  six 
or  eight  hours.  —  Marion  Harland, 

Chocolate  Blanc-mange  and  Cream  (2). 

Make  the  blanc-rriange  as  directed  in  last 
receipt.  Set  it  to  form  in  a  mould  with  a 
cylinder  in  the  centre.  You  can  improvise 
one  by  stitching  together  a  roll  of  stiff  paper 
just  the  height  of  the  pail  or  bowl  in  which 
you  propose  to  mould  your  blanc-mange, 
and  holding  it  firmly  in  the  middle  of  this 
while  you  pour  the  mixture  around  it. 
The  paper  should  be  well  buttered.  Lay 
a  book  or  other  light  weight  on  the 
cylinder  to  keep  it  erect.  When  the  blanc- 
mange is  turned  out  slip  out  the  paper, 
and  fill  the  cavity  with  whipped  cream, 
heaping  some  about  the  base.  Specks  of 
bright  jelly  enliven  this  dish  if  disposed 
tastefully  upon  the  cream.  —  Marion  Har- 
land, 

Chocolate   Blanc-mange  (3). 

Grate  a  teacupful  of  chocolate  ;  add  to  it 


130  RECEIPTS. 

a  pint  of  water  and  a  teacup  or  more  of 
sugar ;  let  it  simmer  until  the  chocolate  is 
all  dissolved ;  add  a  quart  of  milk  and  one- 
third  of  a  paper  of  corn-starch  mixed  in 
cold  water.  When  the  milk  begins  to  boil 
stir  in  the  corn-starch  ;  boil  it  five  minutes, 
flavor  with  vanilla  extract,  and  pour  into 
moulds.  —  Sara  T.  Paul, 

Blanc-mange  (4). 
Half  box  gelatine  ;  one  quart  milk  ;  yolk 
of  two  eggs  ;  one  small  teacupful  of  sugar  ; 
one  large  tablespoonful  of  vanilla ;  seven 
squares  of  Baker's  chocolate.  Dissolve 
the  gelatine  in  about  a  gill  of  cold  water  ; 
let  it  stand  for  two  hours.  Grate  the  choco- 
late fine,  then  dissolve  it  in  a  little  of  the 
milk,  slightly  warmed  ;  scald  the  remainder 
of  the  milk ;  beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and 
sugar  together  until  very  light.  When  the 
milk  is  well  scalded,  add  the  gelatine, 
chocolate,  eggs,  and  sugar.  Let  this  sim- 
mer gently  for  fifteen  minutes.     Strain  the 


RECEIPTS.  131 

mixture  into  a  mould.  Set  on  ice.  This 
blanc-mange  should  be  thoroughly  cooked. 
—  Choice  Receipts, 

Chocolate  Custards  (baked). 
One  quart  of  good  milk ;  six  eggs,  yolks 
and  whites  separated ;  one  cup  sugar ;  four 
great  spoonfuls  grated  chocolate ;  vanilla 
flavoring.  Scald  the  milk ;  stir  in  the 
chocolate  and  simmer  two  minutes,  to  dis- 
solve and  incorporate  well  with  the  milk. 
Beat  up  the  yolks  with  the  sugar  and  put 
into  the  hot  mixture.  Stir  for  one  minute 
before  seasoning  and  pouring  into  the  cups, 
which  should  be  set  ready  in  a  pan  of  boil- 
ing water.  They  should  be  half  sub- 
merged, that  the  water  may  not  bubble 
over  the  tops.  Cook  slowly  about  twenty 
minutes,  or  until  the  custards  are  firm. 
When  cold  whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to 
a  meringue  with  a  very  little  powdered 
sugar  (most  meringues  are  too  sweet)  and 
pile  some  upon  the  top  of  each  cup.     Put 


132  RECEIPTS. 

a  piece  of  red  jelly  on  the  mSringue.  — 
Marion  Harland. 

Chocolate  Custards    (boiled). 

One  quart  of  milk  ;  six  eggs,  whites  and 
yolks  separately  beaten  ;  one  cup  of  sugar ; 
four  large  spoonfuls  grated  chocolate  ;  va- 
nilla to  taste,  a  teaspoonful  to  the  pint  is  a 
good  rule.  Scald  the  milk,  stir  in  sugar 
and  chocolate.  Boil  gently  five  minutes, 
and  add  the  yolks.  Cook  five  minutes 
more,  or  until  it  begins  to  thicken  up  well, 
stirring  all  the  time.  When  nearly  cold 
beat  in  the  flavoring,  and  whisk  all  briskly 
for  a  minute  before  pouring  into  the  cus- 
tard-cups. Whip  up  the  whites  with  a 
little  powdered  sugar,  or,  what  is  better, 
half  a  cup  of  currant  or  cranberry  jelly,  and 
heap  upon  the  custards.  —  Marion  Har- 
land. 

Chocolate  Custards. 

One  quart  of  milk  ;  one  ounce  of  Baker's 
best  French   chocolate  ;    eight  eggs ;   two 


RECEIPTS.  133 

teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  ;  eight  teaspoonfuls 
of  white  sugar.  Beat  the  eight  yolks  and 
the  two  whites  of  the  eggs  until  they  are 
light.  Boil  the  milk ;  when  boiling  stir 
the  chocolate  and  the  sugar  into  it,  and 
then  put  it  into  a  clean  pitcher.  Place  this 
in  a  pot  of  boiling  water ;  stir  one  way 
gently  all  the  time  until  it  becomes  a  thick 
cream ;  when  cold  strain  it  and  add  the 
vanilla  ;  place  it  in  cups  ;  beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  the  sugar 
to  them  ;  beat  well,  and  place  some  of  this 
frosting  on  the  top  of  each  custard.  — 
Choice  Receipts. 

Chocolate  Bavarian  Cream. 
Whip  one  pint  of  cream  to  a  stiff  froth, 
laying  it  on  a  sieve ;  boil  a  pint  of  rich 
milk  with  a  vanilla  bean  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls*  of  sugar  until  it  is  well  flavored  ; 
then  take  it  off  the  fire  and  add  half  a  box 
of  Nelson's  or  Coxe's  gelatine,  soaked  for 
an  hour   in  half  a  cupful   of  water  in  a 


134  RECEIPTS. 

warm  place  near  the  range ;  when  slight- 
ly cooled  add  two  tablets  of  chocolate, 
soaked  and  smoothed.  Stir  in  the  eggs 
well  beaten.  When  it  has  become  quite 
cold,  and  begins  to  thicken,  stir  it  without 
ceasing  a  few  minutes,  until  it  is  very- 
smooth  ;  then  stir  in  the  whipped  cream 
lightly  until  it  is  well  mixed.  Put  it  into 
a  mould  or  moulds,  and  set  it  on  ice  or  in 
some  cool  place.  — Mrs.  Blair. 

Chocolate  Souffles. 

Three  ounces  of  grated  chocolate,  one 
ounce  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  butter,  one 
ounce  of  flour,  one  gill  of  milk,  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  whites  of  four  eggs.  Butter 
and  bind  around  a  pint  and  a  half  souffle- 
tin  a  band  of  paper  to  form  a  wall  above 
the  tin,  and  confine  the  souffle  as  it  rises. 
Butter  also  the  interior  of  the  tin. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  stir 
into  it  the  flour,  and,  adding  the  milk,  stir 
all  until  boiling.     When  boiling  take  the 


RECEIPTS.  135 

saucepan  from  the  fire,  throw  into  it  the 
chocolate  and  the  sugar,  and  drop  in  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  stirring  all 
meantime. 

Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth  and  stir  this  in  also  very  lightly. 

Pour  the  mixture  into  the  souffle-tin, 
which  should  make  it  about  two  thirds 
full,  and  place  the  tin  into  a  deep  saucepan 
containing  sufficient  water  to  reach  half- 
way up  the  sides  of  the  form.  Cover  the 
saucepan,  and  drawing  it  aside  from  the 
fire  allow  the  water  to  simmer  therein  for 
thirty  minutes,  keeping  it  all  the  time 
covered. 

When  steamed  take  the  souffle  from  the 
saucepan,  transfer  it  quickly  to  a  silver 
soziffle-dish,  or  fold  round  the  tin  in  which 
it  is  prepared  a  napkin,  and  serve  at  once, 
carrying  the  dish  upon  a  hot  shovel  if  the 
dining-room  be  distant  from  the  kitchen. 
—  Matilda  Lees  Dods,  of  the  South  Ken- 
sing-ton  School  of  Cookery. 


136  RECEIPTS. 

Chocolate  Meringue. 

To  one  quart  of  boiling  milk  add  half  an 
ounce  of  isinglass  dissolved  in  hot  water ; 
add  half  a  pound  of  Baker's  chocolate, 
grated  ;  sweeten  ;  simmer  until  it  becomes 
a  rich  jelly  ;  stir  while  boiling.  Line  but- 
tered pans  with  rich  paste ;  pour  in  the 
mixture  ;  bake  until  the  pastry  is  cooked  ; 
then  let  it  cool.  Beat  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  sweeten ;  spread  it 
over  the  pies  with  a  knife ;  bake  a  light 
brown. — Flora  Neely, 

Chocolate   Creams    (i). 

Soak  one  box  of  gelatine  in  cold  water 
enough  to  cover  it  one  hour. 

Put  one  quart  of  rich  milk  into  a  tin 
pail,  and  set  it  in  a  kettle  with  hot  water 
to  boil.  Scrape  two  ounces  of  French 
chocolate,  and  mix  with  eight  spoonfuls 
of  sugar ;  wet  this  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
the  boiling  milk,  and  rub  with  the  bowl 


RECEIPTS.  137 

of  the  spoon  until  a  smooth  paste,  then 
stir  into  the  boiling  milk  ;  now  stir  in  the 
gelatine,  and  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  ten 
•well-beaten  eggs ;  stir  three  minutes,  take 
off  and  strain ;  set  in  a  pan  of  ice-water ; 
stir  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  two  spoon- 
fuls of  vanilla,  and  put  into  blanc-mange 
moulds ;  set  away  on  the  ice  for  three 
hours.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. —  M. 
Parloa. 

Chocolate  Creams   (2). 

Inside:  Two  cups  of  sugar;  one  cup 
of  water ;  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls 
of  arrow-root ;  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Outside :  Half  a  pound  of  Baker's  choco- 
late.—  Directions.  For  inside:  Mix  the 
ingredients,  except  the  vanilla ;  let  them 
boil  from  five  to  eight  minutes  ;  stir  all  the 
time.  After  this  is  taken  from  the  fire 
stir  until  it  comes  to  a  cream.  When  it 
is  nearly  smooth  add  the  vanilla  and  make 
the  cream  into  balls.     For  outside:  Melt 


138  RECEIPTS. 

the  chocolate,  but  do  not  add  water  to  it. 
Roll  the  cream  balls  into  the  chocolate 
while  it  is  warm.  —  Choice  Receipts, 

Cream  Chocolates. 
Factitious  foitdant,  or  cream,  is  made  by 
mixing  the  finest  powdered  sugar  with 
glucose  and  a  little  extract  of  vanilla  in  a 
bowl,  and  working  them  together  in  the 
same  manner  as  you  would  mix  the  whites 
of  eggs  and  sugar  for  making  icing,  only 
there  must  be  worked  in  sufficient  to  form 
a  softish  paste  or  dough  that  can  be  rolled 
into  small  balls  with  the  hands ;  these  are 
to  be  afterwards  dipped  in  melted  choco- 
late and  laid  on  paper  until  the  chocolate 
concretes.  —  Confectioner'' s  Journal. 

Chocolate  Fondant,  or  Cream. 
Take,    say,  four   pounds  of  sugar,   one 
quart   of  water,    half  a  pound   of  cocoa- 
paste  grated,  and  sufficient  vanilla  extract 
to  flavor  highly.    Boil  these  to  the  feather, 


RECEIPTS.  139 

36°  by  the  saccharometer,  2400  by  thermom- 
eter ;  then  pour  it  upon  a  scrupulously 
clean  marble  slab.  When  it  has  become 
nearly  cold  turn  or  scrape  in  the  edges, 
and  with  a  long-handled  spatula  work  it 
vigorously  and  steadily  to  and  fro ;  it 
granulates  into  a  smooth  mass  ;  then  with 
a  knife  scrape  it  all  together,  and  break 
it  —  that  is,  work  or  knead  it  —  with 
the  hands,  until  it  forms  a  softish,  dough- 
like mass ;  then  keep  it  in  an  earthen  or 
stone- ware  jar  or  tureen,  covered  from  the 
air.  It  is  now  ready  for  any  future  oper- 
ation to  which  you  may  wish  to  apply  it.  — 
Confectioner 's  Journal. 

Chocolate  Charlotte  Russe. 
Having  soaked  in  cold  water  an  ounce 
of  gelatine,  shave  down  three  ounces  of 
Baker's  chocolate,  and  mix  it  gradually 
into  a  pint  of  cream,  adding  the  dissolved 
and  strained  gelatine.  Set  the  cream, 
chocolate,  and  gelatine  over  the  fire,  in  a 


140  RECEIPTS. 

porcelain   kettle,    and   boil   it  slowly  for 
three  or  four  minutes. 

Take  off  the  fire,  and  let  it  cool.  Have 
ready  eight  yolks  of  eggs  and  four 
whites  beaten  all  together  until  very  light, 
and  stir  them  gradually  into  the  mixture, 
in  turn  with  half  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar.  Simmer  the  whole  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  quite 
boil ;  then  take  it  off,  and  whip  it  to  a 
strong  froth.  Line  your  moulds  with 
sponge   cake,   and   set  them   on  ice. 

Chocolate  Custard  Pies. 
Simmer  one  quart  of  milk  ;  add  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  Baker's  chocolate,  grated  ; 
sweeten  to  taste  ;  beat  in  four  well-beaten 
eggs.  Line  deep  pie-pans  with  rich  paste  ; 
pour  in  the  mixture.  Bake  in  moderately 
quick  oven. 

Chocolate  Pie  (rich). 
To   one   pint   of  boiling  milk  add  one 


RECEIPTS.  141 

tablespoonful  of  rice-flour  ;  the  yolks  of  five 
eggs,  well  beaten ;  a  little  salt ;  one  pint 
of  cream  ;  sweeten  to  taste ;  quarter  of  a 
pound  grated  chocolate  (Baker's)  well 
dried ;  let  them  boil,  stirring ;  let  it  cool. 
Line  deep  buttered  tins,  pour  in  the  mixt- 
ure and  bake.  —  Flora  Neely. 

Ice  Cream  (i). 

Mix  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  one  pint 
of  boiling  milk  ;  one  quart  of  cream  ;  four 
ounces  of  chocolate  dissolved  in  one  pint 
of  hot  water  ;  sweeten  to  taste  ;  flavor  with 
extract  of  vanilla.  Whisk  thoroughly  over 
the  fire  until  thick  and  smooth ;  when  cool 
freeze. 

Ice  Cream  (2). 

To  each  quart  of  cream  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  sweet  chocolate,  to  be  dissolved  in  a 
small  quantity  of  cream  (or  water)  and 
added  when  the  cream  is  partly  frozen.  — 
Flora  Neely, 


142  RECEIPTS. 

Chocolate  Ice  Cream  (3). 
Prepare  a  mixture  as  for  vanilla  ice 
cream.  Melt  four  ounces  of  chocolate  in 
half  a  glass  of  water,  on  the  fire ;  add  it 
to  your  mixture,  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  freeze.  —  Pierre   Caron. 

Chocolate  Ice  Cream  (4). 
Boil  one  quart  of  milk ;  grate  half  a 
pound  of  vanilla  chocolate,  and  stir  into 
the  milk ;  let  it  boil  until  thick ;  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar.  When  cool 
add  one  quart  of  cream  ;  stir  well  and  pour 
into  the  freezer.  —  The  Dessert  Book. 

Chocolate  Ice  Cream  (5). 
To  three  pints  of  cream  take  one  of  new 
milk,  two  eggs,  a  teacupful  of  grated  choc- 
olate, two  coffee-cups  of  powdered  sugar, 
a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  and  one  of  ex- 
tract of  vanilla.  Beat  the  eggs,  stir  them 
in  the  milk  ;  add  the  corn-starch  and  sugar. 
Let  them  come  to  aboil,  take  them  quickly 


RECEIPTS.  143 

from  the  fire ;  dissolve  the  chocolate  in  a 
little  milk  over  the  fire,  stir  it  all  the  time. 
When  perfectly  smooth  mix  it  with  the 
milk  and  eggs,  then  add  the  cream  and 
vanilla ;  if  not  sweet  enough,  more  sugar. 
When  cold  put  it  in  the  freezer. 

Chocolate  Cream  Drops. 
One  cake  of  vanilla  chocolate  ;  three  cups 
of  powdered  sugar  ;  one  cup  of  soft  water ; 
two  tablespoonfuls  corn-starch  or  arrow- 
root ;  one  tablespoonful  butter ;  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  vanilla.  Wash  from  the  butter 
every  grain  of  salt ;  stir  the  sugar  and  water 
together  ;  mix  in  the  corn-starch  and  bring  to 
a  boil,  stirring  constantly  to  induce  granula- 
tion. Boil  about  ten  minutes,  when  add  the 
butter.  Take  from  the  fire  and  beat  as  you 
would  eggs  until  it  begins  to  look  like  gran- 
ulated cream.  Put  in  the  vanilla;  butter 
your  hands  well,  make  the  cream  into  balls 
about  the  size  of  a  large  marble,  and  lay 
upon  a  greased  dish. 


144  RECEIPTS. 

Meanwhile  the  chocolate  should  have 
been  melted  by  putting  it  (grated  fine)  into 
a  tin  pail  or  saucepan  and  plunging  it  into 
another  of  boiling  water.  When  it  is  a 
black  syrup  add  about  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar  to  it,  beat  smooth,  turn  out  upon 
a  hot  dish,  and  roll  the  cream  balls  in  it 
until  sufficiently  coated.  Lay  upon  a  cold 
dish  to  dry,  taking  care  that  they  do  not 
touch  one  another. — Marion  Harland. 

Chocolate  Caramels  (i). 
One  cup  rich,  sweet  cream  ;  one  cup 
brown  sugar  ;  one  cup  white  sugar  ;  seven 
tablespoonfuls  vanilla  chocolate  ;  one  table- 
spoonful  corn-starch  stirred  into  the  cream  ; 
one  tablespoonful  butter  ;  vanilla  flavoring  ; 
soda  the  size  of  a  pea  stirred  into  cream. 
Boil  all  the  ingredients  except  the  chocolate 
and  vanilla  extract  half  an  hour,  stirring  to 
prevent  burning.  Reserve  half  of  the  cream 
and  wet  up  the  chocolate  in  it,  adding  a  very 
little  water  if  necessary.     Draw  the  sauce- 


RECEIPTS.  145 

pan  to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  stir  this 
in  well ;  put  back  on  the  fire,  and  boil  ten 
minutes  longer,  quite  fast,  stirring  constant- 
ly. When  it  makes  a  hard,  glossy  coat  on 
the  spoon  it  is  done.  Add  the  vanilla  after 
taking  it  from  the  range.  Turn  into  shallow- 
dishes  well  buttered.  When  cold  enough 
to  retain  the  impression  of  the  knife  cut  into 
squares.  —  Marion  Harland. 

Chocolate  Caramels  (2). 
One  cupful  of  best  syrup ;  one  cupful  of 
brown  sugar ;  one  cupful  of  white  sugar  ; 
two  cupfuls  of  grated  chocolate  ;  two  cup- 
fuls  of  cream  vanilla ;  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour  mixed  with  cream.  Rub  the  choco- 
late to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  little  of  the 
cream  ;  boil  all  together  half  an  hour,  and 
pour  it  into  flat  dishes  to  cool.  Mark  it 
with  a  knife  into  little  squares  when  it  is 
cool  enough.  — Mrs.  Mary  F.  Henderson, 

Cream  Chocolate  Caramel  (3.) 
Make  a  six-pound  batch  of  chocolate  car- 


146  RECEIPTS. 

am  el ;  pour  it  out  in  as  square  a  form  as 
possible  upon  a  greased  marble  slab  (with- 
out iron  bars)  ;  let  it  spread  out  as  thin  as 
it  will,  and  when  it  becomes  cold  run  the 
candy  sword  under  it  in  order  to  loosen  it 
from  the  slab ;  then  mark  it  crosswise 
through  the  centre  of  the  batch,  and  pour 
thickly  melted  fondant  over  one-half  the 
surface ;  then  take  the  uncovered  half  by 
the  end,  using  both  hands,  and  quickly 
throw  it  over  the  creamed  portion.  Press 
this  top  sheet  down  upon  the  other  all 
around  the  edges,  then,  with  a  caramel 
cutter,  cut  the  batch  into  small  square 
tablets.  In  this  manner  the  cream  is  en- 
closed in  the  centre  of  each  tablet.  —  Con- 
fectioner's Journal. 

Chocolate  Candy. 

One  cup  of  molasses,  two  of  sugar,  one 
of  milk,  one-half  of  chocolate,  a  piece  of 
butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg. 

Boil   the   milk   and    molasses   together, 


RECEIPTS.  147 

scrape  the  chocolate  fine,  and  mix  with 
just  enough  of  the  boiling  milk  and  mo- 
lasses to  moisten  ;  rub  it  perfectly  smooth, 
then,  with  the  sugar,  stir  into  the  boiling 
liquid ;  add  the  butter,  and  boil  twenty 
minutes.  Try  as  molasses  candy,  and  if 
it  hardens  pour  into  a  buttered  dish.  Cut 
the  same  as  nut-candy.  —  M.  Parloa. 

Creme  de  Cacao. 
Infuse  five  ounces  of  Caracas  cocoa- 
nibs,  crushed ;  one  bean  of  Vera  Cruz 
vanilla,  split  and  cut  into  small  pieces ; 
quarter  ounce  of  cinnamon,  and  one  drop  of 
essence  of  almond,  in  one  quart  of  brandy, 
or  deodorized  alcohol,  for  ten  days.  Strain, 
press  ;  then  filter  clear,  and  add  one  quart 
of  clarified  syrup.  Bottle  and  cork  well. 
—  Confectioner }s  Journal, 

Chocolate  Parfait  Amour. 
Dissolve  half  a  pound  of  chocolate  highly 
flavored  with  vanilla   in    sufficient  water. 
In  a  bottle  of  brandy  digest  one  ounce  of 


148  RECEIPTS. 

bruised  cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  of  cloves, 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  In  three  days  add  the 
dissolved  chocolate ;  macerate  one  week, 
closely  corked ;  then  strain  clear.  —  Con- 
fectioner's Journal, 

Bavaroise  au  Chocolate. 

Mix  one  egg  and  two  ounces  of  pow- 
dered sugar  with  one  pint  of  milk  or  cream  ; 
place  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  until  it  is  about 
to  boil ;  then  instantly  remove  and  add  a 
gill  of  well-made,  rich  chocolate  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  extract  of  vanilla.  Pour  it  into 
pint  tumblers  and  serve.  Zwieback,  nice 
and  fresh,  is  generally  served  with  the 
chocolate  bavaroise,  —  Confectioner' 's 
Journal, 

Chocolate  Syrup. 

Mix  eight  ounces  of  chocolate  in  one 
quart  of  water,  and  stir,  and  melt  thor- 
oughly over  a  slow  fire.  Strain  and  add 
four  pounds  of  white  sugar.  —  Confec- 
tioner's Journal, 


RECEIPTS.  149 

Chocolate  Syrup  for  Soda  Water. 

Baker's  chocolate  (plain) ,  four  ounces ; 
boiling  water,  four  ounces  ;  water,  twenty- 
eight  ounces  ;  sugar,  thirty  ounces  ;  extract 
of  vanilla,  one-half  ounce.  Cut  the  choco- 
late into  small  pieces,  then  add  the  boiling 
water,  and  stir  briskly  until  the  mixture 
forms  into  a  thick  paste,  and  assumes  a 
smooth  and  uniform  appearance ;  then 
slowly  add  the  remainder  of  the  water, 
stirring  at  the  same  time,  and  set  aside  until 
cold.  After  cooling  thoroughly,  a  layer  of 
solid  grease  forms  over  the  surface,  which 
is  to  be  carefully  removed  by  skimming. 
After  this  is  completed  add  the  sugar,  dis- 
solved by  the  aid  of  a  gentle  heat,  and  allow 
the  whole  to  come  to  a  boil.  Then  strain 
and  add  the  extract  of  vanilla.  This  forms 
a  syrup  which  is  perfect.  It  possesses  the 
pure,  rich  flavor  of  the  chocolate  without 
the  unpleasant  taste  which  is  obtained  if  the 
solid  fat  is  not  removed.  —  M.  Michaelis. 


150  RECEIPTS. 

Chocolate  Icing  or  Coating. 

Put  one  pound  of  the  best  sugar  in  a 
copper  pan  and  boil  to  the  blow,  or  thirty- 
four  degrees  ;  place  the  bottom  of  the  pan  in 
cold  water  (contained  in  a  saucepan)  to  cool, 
until  the  sugar  begins  to  set  at  the  bottom 
and  sides  of  the  pan.  Put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fine  chocolate  or  cocoa  paste  with 
half  a  gill  of  water  in  a  pan  ;  place  it  in  the 
mouth  of  the  oven,  or  on  a  very  slow  fire, 
until  it  is  thoroughly  melted,  stirring  con- 
stantly ;  add  half  a  gill  of  simple  syrup,  and 
work  until  it  is  entirely  smooth,  then  add  it 
to  the  boiled  sugar.  Mix  well  and  ice  or 
cover  your  cakes.  In  a  few  minutes  they 
will  become  dry.  —  Confectioner's  Journal, 

Chocolate  Whip  (i). 

One  ounce  of  cocoa-paste,  scraped  fine, 
added  to  one  quart  of  rich  cream  and  half 
a  pound  of  pulverized  sugar ;  place  on  the 
pan  and  bring  it  to  the  boiling-point,  stir- 


RECEIPTS.  151 

ring  constantly  with  a  whisk  ;  then  remove 
it,  and  when  cold  add  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  and  whisk  briskly  ;  remove  the  froth 
with  a  perforated  skimmer,  and  lay  it  upon 
a  hair  sieve  to  drain.  When  you  have 
sufficient  froth,  or  whip,  fill  your  glasses 
or  cups  three-fourths  full  of  the  cream  and 
pile  the  whip  on  the  top  of  them  ;  sprinkle 
a  little  vanilla  sugar,  or  powdered  cinna- 
mon, on  the  whip,  and  serve. 

Chocolate  Whip  (2). 
Dissolve  two  ounces  of  cocoa-paste,  on  a 
moderate  fire,  in  half  a  tumbler  of  boiling 
water,  and  when  cold  add  it  to  the  cream 
together  with  six  ounces  of  fine  sugar. 
Whip  and  finish  as  above. 

Chocolate  Drops,  with  Nonpareils. 
Warm  some  sweet  chocolate  by  pound- 
ing it  in  a  hot  iron  mortar ;  when  it  is 
reduced  to  a  malleable  paste  make  it  into 
balls,  about  the  size  of  a  small  marble,  by 
rolling  a  little  in  the  hand.     Place  them 


152  RECEIPTS. 

on  sheets  of  white  paper  about  an  inch 
apart.  When  the  sheet  is  covered,  take  it 
by  the  corners  and  lift  it  up  and  down, 
letting  it  touch  the  table  each  time,  which 
will  flatten  them.  Cover  the  surface  en- 
tirely with  white  nonpareils,  and  shake  off 
the  surplus  one.  The  bottom  of  the  drops 
should  be  about  as  broad  as  a  five-cent  piece. 
—  Confectioner*  s  Journal, 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Established  in  the  Year  1780. 


WALTER  BAKER  &  CO., 

DORCHESTER,  MASS., 


MANUFACTURERS   OF 


CHOCOLATE,  BROMA,  AND  OTHER 
PREPARATIONS  FROM  COCOA. 


SEVENTEEN     MEDALS     AND    DIPLOMAS 

RECEIVED    FROM   THE   GREAT   IN- 

TERNATIONAL     AND     OTHER 

EXHIBITIONS. 


156  ADVERTISEMENT. 

Frequent  analyses  have  been  made,  under  the 
direction  of  Boards  of  Health  and  sanitary  asso- 
ciations in  our  large  cities,  to  determine  the 
purity  of  chocolate  and  cocoa  preparations  sold 
in  this  country,  and  in  every  such  analysis  the 
articles   manufactured   by 

WALTER  BAKER    &    CO., 

are  reported  to  be  entirely  pure  and  free   from 
the  admixture  of  deleterious  substances. 


BAKER'S  PREMIUM  No.  1 
CHOCOLATE, 

In  i-lb.  packages,  blue  wrapper,  yellow  label, 

Is  the  fresh  roasted  cocoa-beans  carefully  selected 
and  prepared,  then  moulded  into  cakes.  It  is 
the  very  best  preparation  of  plain  chocolate  in 
the  market  for  family  use.  Celebrated  for  more 
than  a  century  as  a  nutritive,  salutary,  and  de- 
licious beverage. 


ADVERTISEMENT.  157 

BAKER'S  VANILLA  CHOCOLATE, 

In  1-2  lb.  packages, 
Is  guaranteed  to  consist  solely  of  choice  cocoa 
and  sugar,  flavored  with  pure  vanilla  beans. 
Particular  care  is  taken  in  its  preparation,  and  a 
trial  will  convince  one  that  it  is  really  a  delicious 
article  for  eating  or  drinking.  It  is  equal  to  any 
of  the  imported  chocolates.  For  tourists  and 
those  who  wish  a  very  pleasant  article  for  eating 
dry,  and  without  any  preparation,  it  is  the  best. 

GERMAN  SWEET  CHOCOLATE, 

In  1-4  lb.  packages, 
Is  one  of  the  most  popular  sweet  chocolates 
sold  anywhere.  It  is  palatable,  nutritious,  and 
healthful.  It  is  a  great  favorite  with  children, 
and  an  excellent  substitute  for  much  of  the  con- 
fectionery now  offered  to  the  public. 

Beware    of  Imitations,      The  Genuine  is 
Stamped  S,  German,  Dorchester,  Mass, 


158  ADVERTISEMENT. 

BAKER'S  PREPARED  COCOA, 

In  1-2  pound  packages,  yellow  label, 

Is  a  perfectly  pure  and  refreshing  beverage,  pre- 
pared exclusively  from  selected  cocoa.  It  is  safely 
recommended  to  those  who  wish  a  wholesome 
preparation,  combining  all  the  properties  of  the 
cocoa-beans.  It  has  for  nearly  a  century  been  a 
standard  article  of  consumption. 

BAKER'S  CRACKED  COCOA,  OR 
COCOA  NIBS, 

In  1-2  and  i  lb.  packages  and  6  and  io  lb.  bags, 

Is  the  fresh  roasted  bean  cracked  into  small  pieces. 
It  contains  no  admixture,  and  presents  the  full 
flavor  of  the  cocoa-bean  in  all  its  natural  fragrance 
and  purity.  When  properly  prepared  it  is  one 
of  the  most  economical  drinks.  Dr.  Lankester 
says  cocoa  contains  as  much  flesh-forming  matter 
as  beef. 


ADVERTISEMENT.  159 

BAKER'S  BROMA, 

In  1-2  lb.  packages  (tin), 

Is  a  preparation  of  pure  cocoa  and  other  highly 
nutritious  substances,  pleasantly  flavored  and 
sweetened.  It  contains  a  large  proportion  of 
theobromine,  and  possesses  powerful  restorative 
qualities.  Its  delicacy  of  flavor  and  perfect  solu- 
bility have  made  it  a  favorite  drink  among 
thousands. 

The  Medical  Gazette  says:  "  Broma,  an  ad- 
mirable preparation,  alike  agreeable  to  the  well 
and  the  sick,  has  acquired  a  reputation  which  we 
think  it  certainly  deserves.  Hospitals,  infirma- 
ries, and  households  generally,  should  always 
be  provided  with  it.  When  gruel,  arrow-root,  and 
many  other  things  ordinarily  resorted  to  for 
patients  are  of  no  utility,  broma  is  sometimes 
relished  and  assimilates  well.  Medical  men  of 
all  shades  of  opinion  recommend  it  to  their 
patients  instead  of  tea  or  coffee. 


160  ADVERTISEMENT. 

BAKER'S  BREAKFAST  COCOA, 

In  1-2  lb.  packages  (tin), 

Is  made  from  selected  cocoa,  with  the  excess  of 
butter  of  cacao  removed,  and  guaranteed  to  be 
absolutely  pure.  It  is  more  than  three  times  the 
strength  of  other  cocoas,  making  an  economical, 
excellent,  and  delicious  beverage  for  breakfast 
or  supper, 

Costing  less  than  One  Cent  a  Cup. 

A  general  favorite  with  all  who  have  tried  it. 
When  purchasing  be  sure  that  your  grocer  sup- 
plies you  with  BAKER'S  BREAKFAST 
COCOA,  as  there  are  imitations  offered  at  a 
lower  price. 

A  prominent  and  experienced  New  York  phy- 
sician says :  "  Experience  from  many  years' 
practice  in  the  treatment  of  lung  diseases  has 
convinced  me  that,  as  an  article  of  diet  for  those 


ADVERTISEMENT.  161 

suffering  ivith  any  form  of  consumption,  chocolate 
is  far  preferable  to  tea  or  coffee ;  in  fact,  the  two 
last-mentioned  articles  are  injurious  in  manj 
cases,  while  chocolate,  being  an  aliment  and 
analeptic,  is  particularly  serviceable  where  diges- 
tion has  been  impaired  by  disease.  Having 
examined  several  specimens  of  chocolate  I  find 
that  Baker's  may  be  conscientiously  recom- 
mended to  invalids." 

COCOA-BUTTER, 

In  1-4  lb.  cakes. 

One-half  the  weight  of  the  cocoa-beans  consists 
of  a  fat  called  Cocoa-Butter,  from  its  resemblance 
to  ordinary  butter.  It  is  considered  a  great  value 
as  a  nutritious,  strengthening  tonic,  being  pre- 
ferred to  cod-liver  oil  and  other  nauseous  fats  so 
often  used  in  pulmonary  complaints.  As  a 
soothing  application  to  chapped  hands  and  lips 
and  all  irritated  surfaces  Cocoa-Butter  has  no 
equal,   making    the  skin    remarkably  soft   and 


162  ADVERTISEMENT. 

smooth.  Many  who  have  used  it  say  they  would 
not  be  without  it,  it  is  such  a  useful  article  to 
have  in  every  household. 

COCOA-SHELLS, 

In  i -lb.  packages. 

Cocoa-Shells  are  the  thin  outer  covering  of 
the  beans.  They  have  a  flavor  similar  to  but 
milder  than  cocoa.  Their  very  low  price  places 
them  within  the  reach  of  all,  and  as  a  pleasant 
and  healthy  drink  they  are  considered  superior 
to  tea  and  coffee. 

Packed  only  in  one-pound  papers,  with  our 
label  and  name  on  them. 

RACAHOUT  DES  ARABES, 

In  boxes,  6  lbs.  each,  — 1-2  lb.  bottles. 

This  celebrated  preparation  is  a  most  nutri- 
tious substance,  and   has  become  indispensable 


ADVERTISEMENT.  163 

as  an  article  of  diet  for  children,  convalescents, 
ladies,  and  delicate  or  aged  persons;  is  com- 
posed of  the  best  nutritive  and  restoring  sub- 
stances, suitable  for  the  most  delicate  system. 
It  is  now  a  favorite  breakfast  beverage  for 
ladies  and  young  -persons,  to  whom  it  gives  fresh- 
ness and  embonpoint.  It  has  solved  the  prob- 
lem of  medicine,  by  imparting  something  which 
is  easily  digestible,  and  at  the  same  time  free 
from  the  exciting  qualities  of  coffee  and  tea,  — 
thus  making  it  especially  desirable  for  nervous 
persons,  or  those  afflicted  with  weak  stomachs. 
Racahout  has  a  very  agreeable  flavor,  is  easily 
prepared,  and  has  received  the  commendation  of 
eminent  Physicians,  as  being  the  best  article 
known  for  convalescents,  and  all  persons  desir- 
ing a  light,  digestible,  nourishing,  and  strength- 
ening food. 


164  ADVERTISEMENT. 


GOODS  FOR  CONFECTIONERS'  USE. 

W.  BAKER  &  CO.'S  CARACAS  LIQUOR, 
in  cases,  100  lbs.  each. 

W.      BAKER     &     CO.'S      MARACAE30 
LIQUOR,  in  cases,  100  lbs.  each. 

EAGLE    PURE    CHOCOLATE    LIQUOR, 
in  cases,  100  lbs.  each. 

ALSO 

W.  BAKER  &  CO.'S  COCOA  and  SHELLS, 
in  bags,  12  and  25  lbs.  each. 

W.  BAKER  &  CO.'S   COCOA-PASTE,   in 
boxes,  12  lbs.  each. 

VANILLA       CHOCOLATE        TABLETS 
(for  eating),  in  boxes,  7  lbs.  each. 


ADVERTISEMENT.  165 

MEDALS  AND  DIPLOMAS 


AWARDED   TO 


WALTER    BAKER    &   CO. 


The  World's   Industrial   Exposition,  New  Or- 
leans, 1S84. 
Southern  Exposition,  Louisville,  1883. 
Mechanics'  Institute,  Boston,  1878. 
Paris  Exposition,  1878. 
Mechanics'  Institute,  San  Francisco,  1877. 
U.S.  Centennial  Exhibition,  1876. 
Vienna  Exposition,  1873. 
Mechanics'  Institute,  New  Orleans,  1871. 
Paris  Exposition,  1867. 
Mechanics'  Institute,  Cincinnati,  1855. 
Maryland  Institute,  1853. 
Crystal  Palace  Exhibition,  N.Y.,  1853. 
American  Institute,  N.Y.,  1853. 
Franklin  Institute,  Philadelphia,  1853. 
Mechanics'  Institute,  Boston,  1853. 
Maryland  Institute,  Baltimore,  1852. 
Smithsonian  Institution,  Washington. 


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